Istanbul Guide

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Beneath the mosque’s ornate ceiling hang several masterful examples of Arabic calligraphy executed by Abdül Mecit, who was an accomplished calligrapher. The mosque fronts onto İskele Meydanı, the hub of this former fishing village and home to a pretty fountain and waterfront cafes. On weekends the square and sur rounding streets host an unremarkable but popular street market. ASKERI MÜZE MUSEUM Map p250 (Military Museum; % 0212-233 2720; www.askerimuze.tsk.tr; Vali Konağı Caddesi, Harbiye; adult/student & child ₺10/free; h 9am 5pm; g Cumhuriyet Cad) For a rousing mu seum experience, present yourself at this little-visited military museum 1km north of Taksim to view the militaria dating from Ottoman to recent times. Try to visit in the afternoon so that you can enjoy a concert by the Mehter military band, which plays most days between 3pm and 4pm. The large museum is spread over two floors. On the ground floor are displays of weapons and Turkish military uniforms through the ages, as well as glass cases holding battle standards, both Turkish and captured, including Byzantine, Greek, British, Austro-Hungarian, Italian and im perial Russian standards. Also on show is an old-fashioned dio rama of the Conquest, and a tapestry wo ven by Ottoman sailors (who must have had lots of time on their hands) shows the flags of important maritime nations from around the world. The upper floor has a Çanakkale (Gal lipoli) diorama and a room devoted to Atatürk, who was a famous Ottoman gen eral before he became founder and com mander-in-chief of the republican army and first president of the Turkish Republic. Perhaps the best reason to visit this mu seum is to view the short concert by the Mehter. Turkish historians argue that the Mehter was the world’s first true military band. Its purpose was not to make pretty music for dancing, but to precede the con quering Ottoman paşas (governors or gen erals) into vanquished towns, impressing upon the defeated populace their new, sub ordinate status. Children in particular will love watching the band members march with their steady, measured pace, turning in unison to face first the left side of the line of march, then the right.

The easiest way to get to the museum is to walk up Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Tak sim Meydanı. This will take around 20 min utes. Alternatively, take any bus heading up Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Taksim Meydanı. YILDIZ PARK PARK Map p250 (Yıldız Parkı; Çırağan Caddesi, Yıldız; g Çırağan) This large and leafy retreat is alive with birds, picnicking families and young couples strolling hand in hand. The best time to visit is in April, when the spring flowers (including thousands of tulips) are in bloom. At the park’s highest point is Yıldız Şale (p150 ), built as a hunting lodge for Sultan Ab dül Hamit II in 1880. Around 500m past the turn-off to Yıldız Şale, you’ll come to the Malta Köşkü (p153), now an unlicensed restaurant and function centre. Built in 1870, this was where Abdül Hamit imprisoned his brother Murat V, whom he had deposed in 1876. The terrace has Bosphorus views, as does the upstairs dining room with its ornate ceiling and chandelier. If you continue walking past the Malta Köşkü for 10 minutes, you’ll arrive at the Yıldız Porselen Fabrikası (Yıldız Porcelain Factory; Map p250; % 0212-260 2370; www.mil lisaraylar.gov.tr; Yıldız Parkı, Yıldız; adult/child & student ₺5/1; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; g Kabataş Lisesi) . This factory occupies a wonderful building designed by Italian architect Rai mondo D’Aronco, who introduced the art nouveau style to İstanbul. You can visit the workshop inside. The showroom at the gate sells porcelain made here, including cups and saucers, whirling dervish figures and fun mugs depicting the Ottoman sultans. The steep walk uphill from Çırağan Cad desi to the şale takes 15 to 20 minutes. If you come to the park by taxi, have it take you up the slope to the şale . ÇIRAĞAN PALACE PALACE Map p162 (Çırağan Sarayı; Çırağan Caddesi 84, Ortaköy; g Çırağan) Not satisfied with the architectural exertions of his predecessor at Dolmabahçe Palace, Sultan Abdül Aziz (r 1861–76) built his own grand residence at Çırağan, only 1.5km away. Here, archi tect Nikoğos Balyan, who had also worked on Dolmabahçe, created an interesting building melding European neoclassical with Ottoman and Moorish styles. The Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel (p153 ) now occupies part of the palace.

Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy Sights