Istanbul Guide

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5 EATING The student and professional population ensures plenty of eateries in Beşiktaş and Ortaköy. On weekends in Ortaköy, locals flock to the kümpir (stuffed baked potatoes) and waffle stands behind Ortaköy Mosque or to branches of the chains Kitchenette and House Cafe. Inland from the main square, kebapçıs (kebap restaurants) and other affordable eateries are found in the lanes and Muallim Naci Caddesi. Likewise in Beşiktaş, affordable seafood restaurants, attracting students and middle-class locals, sit near the fish market between Ortabahçe Caddesi and the streets leading east to Barbaros Bulvarı. Head to affluent Nişantaşı to sample the finest contemporary Turkish cuisine. PARE BAKLAVA BAR SWEETS € Map p250 ( % 0212-236 5920; www.parebaklava bar.com; Şakayık Sokak 32, Nişantaşı; h 8am 10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; aW ; m Os manbey) Billing itself as Turkey’s first-ever baklava bar, this bijou business flies in top grade baklava and katmer (flaky pastry stuffed with pistachios and clotted cream) from Gaziantep every day. Make your choice and settle back to enjoy a few pieces with a glass of tea or a well-made coffee. FOODIE BAKERY € Map p250 ( % 0212-231 5113; www.foodie.com. tr; Güzelbahçe Sokak 23, Nişantaşı; cakes from ₺10; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; m Osmanbey) Try the eclairs at this tiny artisan cake shop, which also makes brownies, cheesecakes CAFE € Map p250 (Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş; tost ₺5, mains ₺10; h 8.30am-10pm; j Kabataş) If the onslaught of late Ottoman decadence at Dolmabahçe Palace makes you feel faint, head to its Clock Tower Cafe to recover over a drink or snack. The windows overlook the Bosphorus, and prices are reasonable for a museum cafe (çay ₺2.50; cappuccino ₺ 7). KANTIN MODERN ANATOLIAN €€ Map p250 ( % 0212-219 3114; www.kantin.biz; Maçka Caddesi 35a, Milli Reasürans Pasajı 16 ve 60, Nişantaşı; mains ₺15-44; h 11am-5pm Mon, 11am-11.30pm Tue-Sat; m Osmanbey) An early and much-loved adopter of the Slow Food philosophy, ‘Canteen’ remains one of Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy Eating and other treats. SAAT KULE CAFE

İstanbul’s best bistros (and high-end take- aways). Chef-owner Semsa Denizsel, a pioneer of the farm-to-table approach in Turkey, serves ‘new İstanbul cuisine’, re flecting the city’s melting-pot heritage of Turkish, Greek, Armenian and Jewish home- cooking. Only local and seasonal produce is used and the menu changes regularly. HÜNKAR ANATOLIAN €€ Map p250 ( % 0212-225 4665; www.hunkar lokantasi.com; Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi 21, Nişantaşı; meze ₺10, mains ₺35; h noon 10.30pm; v ; m Osmanbey) If you decide to spend a half-day shopping in Nişantaşı, consider taking a break and eating at Hünkar, one of the city’s best lokantas (eat eries serving ready-made food). In business since 1950, it serves all the classic mezes and grilled meat dishes. AŞŞK KAHVE CAFE €€ ( % 0212-265 4734; www.asskkahve.com; Muallim Naci Caddesi 64b, Kuruçeşme; brunch ₺20 40; h 9am-midnight, closed Mon winter; v ; g Kuruçeşme) Aşk means ‘love’ in Turkish; the extra ş creates something similar to ‘loove’ in English. Semantics aside, Aşşk serves İstanbullus their beloved leisurely Turkish breakfast by the Bosphorus. Go early to snaffle a table by the water, prefer ably on a weekend. Sandwiches, pizza and cocktails make a visit later in the day also worthwhile. Access is via the stairs behind the Macrocenter. ALANCHA MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p250 ( % 0212-261 3535; http://en.alancha. com; Maçka Kempinski Residence, Şehit Mehmet Sokak 9, Maçka; menu ₺240; h 7.30-10pm; m Os manbey) Alancha’s designer decor is as strik ing as its colourful and artfully arranged dinner dishes, which include servings of wild sea bass to filet mignon. Go for the Anato lian tasting menu, which features a dozen courses prepared with artisan ingredients from the seven regions of Anatolia, starting with stuffed mussels and continuing through pistachio kebap to baklava and lokum (Turk ish Delight). Wine pairing costs ₺ 160. BANYAN ASIAN €€€ Map p250 ( % 0212-259 9060; www.banyan restaurant.com; 2nd fl, Salhane Sokak 3, Or taköy; sushi ₺40, mains ₺80; h noon-midnight; v ; g Kabataş Lisesi) The menu here travels around Asia, featuring Thai, Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese and Chinese dishes,