Istanbul Guide

KADIKÖY PRODUCE MARKET

TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

DON’T MISS ¨ ¨ The Serasker Caddesi khavehanis

An aromatic and alluring showcase of the best fresh produce in the city, the Kadıköy Pazarı (Market) is foodie central for locals and is becoming an increasingly popular destination for tourists. Equally rewarding to explore independently or on a guided culinary walk, it’s small enough to retain a local feel yet large enough to support a variety of specialist traders. Getting here involves crossing from Europe to Asia and is best achieved on a ferry – from the deck you’ll be able to admire the domes and minarets studding the skylines of both shores and watch seagulls swooping overhead. Once arrived, cross Rihtim Caddesi in front of the iskele (ferry dock), head right (south) across Söğütluçeşme Caddesi and then walk up either Yasa or Muvakkithane Caddesis to reach the centre of the action.

(coffeeshops) ¨ ¨ Çiya Sofrasi

PRACTICALITIES ¨ ¨ Map p253, A4 ¨ ¨ streets around Güneșlibahçe Sokak

¨ ¨ h Mon-Sat ¨ ¨ f Kadıköy

The best produce shops are in Güneşlibahçe Sokak – you’ll see fish glistening on beds of crushed ice, displays of seasonal fruits and vegetables, combs of amber-hued honey, tubs of tangy pickles, bins of freshly roasted nuts and much, much more. Eating and drinking opportunities are plentiful: creamy yogurt and honey at Honeyci (p158 ), regional Anatolian specialities at Çiya Sofrasi (p 158 ), the catch of the day at Kadı Nımet Balıkçılık (p 159 ) and the city’s best Turkish coffee at Fazıl Bey (p 159). For gifts to take home, consider lokum (Turkish Delight) from Ali Muhıddın Hacı Bekir (p 160), coffee from Fazıl Bey or olive-oil soap from one of the herbalists in Güneşlibahçe Sokak.