Istanbul Guide

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1 SIGHTS KADIKÖY PRODUCE MARKET

The station opened in 1908 and func tioned as the main terminus for Asian railway services until it was badly dam aged by fire in 2011. Left to deteriorate, it was placed on the World Monument Fund’s international watch list of endangered buildings and many locals feared that it would be demolished or unsympathetically redeveloped. In 2016, after much public discussion of its future, the İstanbul Met ropolitan Municipality announced that the building would be restored and remain a train station, becoming the terminus of the İstanbul–Ankara fast-train line. www.baylan pastanesi.com.tr; Muvakkithane Caddesi 9; par faits ₺16-19, cakes ₺16; h 7am-10pm; f Kadıköy) The front window and interior of this Kadıköy cake shop, which opened in 1961, have stood the test of time and so too has its popularity. Regulars tend to order a deca dent ice-cream sundae or a pile of chocolate and caramel profiteroles, but an espresso coffee and plate of house-made macaroons (₺14) is a tempting alternative. MESHUR DONDURMACI ALI USTA ICE CREAM € (Moda Caddesi 176, Moda; dondurma from ₺4 per cone, milk puddings ₺8-9; h 11am-2am; c ; f Kadıköy) Weekend and summer-night saunters down Moda Caddesi wouldn’t be the same without a cone of the dondurma (ice cream) produced by master ice-cream maker Ali Usta. There are more than 40 fla vours on offer – we like the fıstıklı (pista chio). In winter, a cup of sahlep (hot milky drink made from crushed orchid-root ex tract) with a milk pudding hits the spot. HONEYCI SWEETS € Map p253 ( % 0533 515 8888; www.honeyci.com. tr; Güneşli Bahçe Sokak 28; yogurt & honey tub ₺5; h 9am-10pm; v ; f Kadıköy) To sample one of the market’s greatest treats, stop at this hon ey shop and ask for a yogurt with a generous swirl of honey from the comb on top. o ÇIYA SOFRASI ANATOLIAN €€ Map p253 ( % 0216-330 3190; www.ciya.com. tr; Güneşlibahçe Sokak 43; portions ₺12-30; h 11.30am-10pm; avc ; f Kadıköy) Known throughout the culinary world, Musa 5 EATING BAYLAN PASTANESI SWEETS € Map p253 ( % 0216-336 2881;

MARKET

See p103. AYA EFIMIA RUM ORTODOKS KILISESI

CHURCH Map p253 (Hagia Euphemia; cnr Mühürdar & Yasa Caddesis; f Kadıköy) This Greek Orthodox church dates from 1830, although there had been a previous church on the same site from the late 17th century. Legend tells us that St Euphemia was a local Christian who, in the 3rd century AD, was tortured and murdered CHURCH Map p253 (Church of Christ the KIng; cnr Mukkad derhane & Mühürdar Caddesis; f Kadıköy) This Armenian church in the centre of the bazaar was built in the late 19th century, although an Armenian church in one form or another has occupied this site since the 17th century. HAYDARPAŞA RAILWAY STATION LANDMARK Map p253 ( f Haydarpaşa) Funded by the Ger man government, this railway station was built in the first decade of the 20th century as the İstanbul stop for a planned Berlin to Baghdad railway service. The station building was designed by German archi tects, but the lovely tile-adorned station iskele (ferry dock) was designed by noted Turkish architect Vedat Tek. Kadıköy Sights for refusing to pray to a pagan god. SURP TAKAVOR ERMENI KILISESI STREET ART Kadıköy is the centre of the city’s street art scene, and the Yeldeğirmeni district (Karakolhane Sokak near the railway tracks, Misak-ı Milli Sokak, İzzettin Sokak and Macit Erbudak Sokak) near the iskele (ferry dock) is where many local and visiting artists hang out. Other examples are on or near Moda Cad desi – look for murals by Adekan next to the Gerekli Şeyler bookshop and on the side of the tennis courts in Hüseyin Bey Sokak off Osman Yeki Üngör Sokak; for the mural by Canavar in the square next to the Mopaş supermarket on Dr Esat Işık Caddesi; and for the mural by Ya banci on the side of the Greek school in Neşe Sokağı. When wandering through the streets you’ll also see interesting tagging by Yok (‘nothing’ in Turkish).