Istanbul Guide

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Kadıköy Shopping ÜSKÜDAR A working-class suburb with a conservative population, Üsküdar isn’t blessed with the restaurants, bars and cafes that give Kadıköy such a vibrant and inclusive edge, but it does have one very big asset – an array of magnificent imperial mosques. Foremost among these is the Atik Valide Mosque (Atik Valide Camii; Valide Imaret Sokak) , designed by Sinan for the Valide Sultan Nurbanu, wife of Selim II (the Sot) and mother of Murat III. Dating from 1583, it has retained most of the buildings in its original külliye (mosque complex) and has a commanding location on Üsküdar’s highest hill. The nearby Çinili Mosque (Çinili Camii, Tiled Mosque; Çinili Hamam Sokak) is dwarfed in comparison, but is notable for the multicoloured İznik tiles that adorn its interior. Slightly further up the hill is one of the few architecturally notable modern mosques in the city, the Şakirin Mosque (cnr Huhkuyusu Caddesi & Dr Burhanettin Üstünel Sokak; g 6, 9A, 11P, 11V, 12A, 12C) . Designed by Hüsrev Tayla and featuring an interior by Zeynap Fadıllıoğlu, it is located opposite the Zeynep Kamil Hospital on the road to Kadıköy. Down by the iskele (ferry dock) are the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (Mihrimah Sultan Camii; Paşa Limanı Caddesi) , a Sinan design from 1547–48 that was commissioned by the daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent; and the Yeni Valide Mosque (Yeni Valide Camii, New Queen Mother’s Mosque; Demokrasi Meydanı) , commissioned by Ahmet III for his mother. South of the iskele is yet another Sinan design: the diminutive 1580 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Mosque (Şemsi Paşa Camii, Kuskonmaz Camii; Paşa Limanı Caddesi) . Next to this is the popular Mistanbul Hancı Cafe (Sahil Yolu 12; h 9am-midnight) , a waterside çay bahçesi (tea garden) where you can enjoy a tea, coffee or soft drink while admiring the view and watching the ever-present group of anglers trying their luck in the choppy waters below. Before leaving the suburb, consider purchasing some of the unusual and delicious lokum (Turkish Delight) sold at Şekerci Aytekin Erol Caferzade ( % 0216 337 1337; www.caferzade.com.tr; Atlas Sokak 21; h 8am-9pm) in the Balıkçılar Çarşısı (Fish Market) off Hakimiyeti Milliye Caddesi. To get here from Kadıköy, take bus 12 or 12A from the bus station in front of the Turyol iskele , or one of the many dolmuşes (minibuses that stop anywhere along their prescribed routes) picking up passengers nearby. From Üsküdar, ferries travel back to Eminönü, Karaköy, Kabataş and Beşiktaş. Use the Üsküdar ferry and metro stations.

7 SHOPPING MESUT GÜNEŞ

f Kadıköy) The Kadıköy branch of the city’s best-known music store also has a cafe on its 1st floor. 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES TURKISH FLAVOURS WALKING ( % 0532 218 0653; www.turkishflavours.com; tours per person US$80-125) A well-regarded outfit offering foodie walks and cooking classes, Turkish Flavours runs a five-hour ‘Market Tour’ that starts at Eminönü’s Spice Bazaar and then takes a ferry to Kadıköy, where it tours the produce mar ket and finishes with a lavish lunch at Çiya Sofrasi (p158). Other tours include a ‘Mey hane Experience’ and a vegetarian food tour through Karaköy and Kadıköy.

TEXTILES Map p253 ( % 0216-337 6215; www.mesutgunes. com.tr; Yasa Caddesi 44-46; h 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; f Kadıköy) It may not look like much from the front, but this shop often sells top-quality towels and sheets manu factured in Turkey for major international brands such as Frette for a fraction of their usual price. ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR FOOD & DRINKS Map p253 ( % 0216-336 1519; Muvakkithane Cad desi 6; h 8am-8pm; f Kadıköy) This Kadıköy branch of İstanbul’s most famous purvey ors of lokum (Turkish Delight) has a small cafe at the rear of the shop. MEPHISTO MUSIC Map p253 ( % 0216-414 3519; www.mephisto. com.tr; Muvakkithane Caddesi 15; h 9am-10pm;