Istanbul Guide

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ARKAODA BAR, CAFE Map p253 ( % 0216-418 0277; www.arkaoda.com; Kadife Sokak 18; h noon-2am; W ; f Kadıköy) A hub of indie music and art, this relaxed place hosts concerts, DJ sets, festivals, par ties, themed markets and film screenings. The comfortable couches in the upstairs lounge are a great spot to while away the daytime hours with a coffee or tea; evening action moves to the rear courtyard, which is covered in winter. KARGA BAR BAR Map p253 ( % 0216-449 1725; www.karga.com. tr; Kadife Sokak 16; h 11am-2am; W ; f Kadıköy) Multi-storey Karga is one of the most fa mous bars in the city, offering cheap drinks, alternative music (DJs and live acts) and avant-garde art on its walls. It’s not signed well – look for the small black bird. ARTHERE CAFE Mapp253( % 05380867691; www.arthereistanbul. com; Beydağı (Ferit Bey) Sokak 3, Rasimpaşa; h 10am-10pm; f Kadıköy) Run by an artist collective, this hybrid cafe, art gallery and performance space is dedicated to artistic creation and hosts arty happenings, in cluding films, installations, performances, workshops and exhibitions. The cafe serves coffee, fresh fruit juices and homemade pastries. WALTER’S COFFEE ROASTERY CAFE Map p253 ( % 0532 200 9892; http://walters coffeeroastery.com; Badem Altı Sokak 21b, Moda; h 10am-midnight; W ; f Kadıköy) Describing itself as the ‘world’s first coffee lab’ (a claim we repeat with a degree of scepticism), this designer roastery and cafe takes its coffee making seriously and serves espresso, Aero press, chemex, cold brew and drip versions in its spacious Moda premises. It’s popular at breakfast (pancakes ₺ 16, bagels ₺ 6 to ₺ 16). 3 ENTERTAINMENT SÜREYYA OPERA HOUSE CLASSICAL MUSIC Map p253 ( % 0216-346 1531; www.sureyya operasi.org; Gen Asim Gündüz (Bahariye) Cad desi 29; f Kadıköy) Built in 1927 and used for many years as a cinema, this bijou building was restored and opened as an opera house in 2007. It is the base of the İstanbul State Opera and Ballet.

Dağdeviren’s lokanta (eatery serving ready made food) showcases dishes from regional Turkey and is a wonderful place to sample treats such as lahmacun (Arabic-style piz za), içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgar and fried) and perde pılavı (chicken and rice in pastry casing). No alcohol, but the home made şerbet (sweet fruit drink) is a delicious accompaniment. Vegetarians are very well catered for here, but should avoid Çiya’s ad joining kebapçı (kebaps ₺ 18 to ₺ 40), which sells a huge variety of tasty meat dishes. KADI NIMET BALIKÇILIK SEAFOOD €€ Map p253 ( % 0216-348 7389; www.kadinimet. com; Serasker Caddesi 10a; mezes ₺9-25; h 11am 11pm; ac ; f Kadıköy) Tucked in behind one of the market’s best fish stalls, with the same owners, this much-loved restau rant is a good place to enjoy the daily catch. Make your choice from the cold mezes on display, choose your fish (daily price by weight) and let the waiters do the rest. Cold beer or rakı (aniseed brandy) are the usual accompaniments. CIBALIKAPI SEAFOOD €€€ ( % 0216-348 9363; www.cibalikapibalikcisi.com; Moda Caddesi 163a, Moda; mezes ₺8-20, fish mains from ₺24; h noon-midnight; a ; f Kadıköy) Generally acknowledged as one of the city’s best fish restaurants, Cibalikapı has two branches – one on the Golden Horn and the other here in Moda. Super-fresh mezes and seafood are enjoyed in the pleasant dining room or on the garden terrace. If you go with a large appetite the daily degustation ( ₺ 180 for two persons) is good value. The other branch is next to Kadir Has Univer sity in Fener on the Golden Horn. 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE o FAZIL BEY COFFEE Map p253 ( % 0216-450 2870; www.fazilbey.com; Serasker Caddesi 1; h 8am-11pm; f Kadıköy) Making the call as to who makes the best Turkish coffee in İstanbul is no easy task, but our vote goes to Fazıl Bey, the best loved khavehan (coffeeshop) on Serasker Caddesi. Enjoying a cup while watching the passing parade of shoppers has kept locals entertained for decades. There are other, less atmospheric, branches in Tavus Sokak and Bağdat Caddesi.

Kadıköy Drinking & Nightlife