Istanbul Guide

172

Golden Horn Cruise

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the Naval Academy but was converted to a hospital in the 1850s; French soldiers were treated here during the Crimean War. There are plans to redevelop the shipyards here into a huge complex including shops, ho tels and restaurants, although locals seem sceptical that this will go ahead in the near future. 1 Kasımpaşa to Hasköy As the ferry makes its way to the next stop, Hasköy, you can see the fascinating Western District suburbs of Fener and Balat on the western (left) shore. Fener is the traditional home of the city’s Greek population and, although few Greeks are resident these days, a number of important Greek Orthodox sites remain. The prominent red-brick building with domed tower on the hill is the Phanar Greek Orthodox College (p118), the oldest

house of learning in İstanbul. The school has been housed in Fener since before the Conquest, but the present building dates from 1881–83. Sadly, it currently has a total enrollment of only 50 or so students. From this point, there are good views of the Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque (p 118) on the ridge line and the Gothic Revival Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars (p121) on the water front, which has distinctive gilded copolas. The next suburb, Balat, was once home to a large proportion of İstanbul’s Jewish population, but is now crowded with mi grants from the east of the country. Passing the derelict remains of the origi nal Galata Bridge on its way, the ferry then docks at Hasköy . For centuries a small, pre dominantly Jewish village, Hasköy became home to a naval shipyard and a sultan’s hunting ground in the Ottoman period. Today it has two sights of interest to visi tors, the Rahmi M Koç Museum, which is located directly to the left of the ferry stop

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