Istanbul Guide

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The ornate 18th-century imperial huntıng pavilion of Aynalıkavak Kasrı (Aynalıkavak Pavilion; Map p172; % 0212-256 9750; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr; Aynalıkavak Caddesi; adult/student ₺5/1; h 9am-4.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Mar; g 47, 47E, 47N from Eminönü; 36T, 54K, 54HT from Taksim) , is set in a pretty garden and now houses a collection of historic musical instruments. To get there from the iskele , walk south east (right) along Hasköy Caddesi, veer left into Okmeydanı Caddesi and then right into Sempt Konağı Sokak, which runs into Kasimpaşa-Hasköy Caddesi. A number of historic cemeteries cling to the hills behind Hasköy. These include the Hasköy Musevi Mezarlıgı (Map p172; f Sütlüce) , where many generations of Jew ish İstanbullus have been buried. 1 Hasköy to Eyüp The ferry’s next stop is at Ayvansaray on the opposite shore. From here you can visit the Kariye Museum (Chora Church; p 114) or walk up to Edirnekapı to see a well preserved section of the historic city walls. It’s possible to see part of the wall structure from the ferry. From Ayvansaray, the ferry crosses to Sütlüce and returns to the western shore to terminate at Eyüp . This conservative sub urb is built around the Eyüp Sultan Mosque (p118), one of the most important religious sites in Turkey. 5 EATING & DRINKING This isn’t a part of town known for its eat ing and drinking options. Your best options for lunch are the cafes and restaurants in the Rahmi M Koç Museum complex (there are three of them). For a tea or coffee break, head to the Pierre Loti Café (p 122) in Eyüp. Princes’ Islands Explore This is a great day trip, particularly as the ferry ride is so enjoyable. Lying 20km

(Hasköy İskelesi); and Aynalıkavak Kasrı, a short walk away. The splendid Rahmi M Koç Museum (Rahmi M Koç Müzesi; Map p172; % 0212-369 6600; www.rmk-museum.org.tr; Hasköy Caddesi 5; museum adult/student/child under 7yr ₺15/6/ free, steam-tug cruise ₺5/3/free, submarine adult/ student ₺7/5, planetarium ₺2; h 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar, to 7pm Sat & Sun Apr Sep; f Hasköy) is dedicated to the history of transport, industry and communications in Turkey. Founded by the head of the Koç in dustrial group, one of Turkey’s most promi nent conglomerates, it exhibits artefacts from İstanbul’s industrial past and is highly inter active, making it a particularly enjoyable des tination for those travelling with children. The museum is in two parts: a new building constructed around a 19th-century dockyard on the Golden Horn side of the road, and a re stored and converted Byzantine stone build ing known as the Lengerhane. The latter was used as a foundry by the Ottomans and now houses a planetarium and a large collec tion of model trains and boats. The exhibits concerned with forms of transport are par ticularly fascinating: you can admire a huge collection of mint-condition classic cars; climb aboard historic trams; take a cruise on a restored 1936 steam tug (summer week ends only); enter the cabin of a 1942 Douglas DC-3 Dakota; board a 1944 US naval subma rine (advance bookings essential); or take a short trip on a working narrow-gauge rail way (summer weekends only). Excellent interpretive panels in Turkish and English are provided. There’s also a Turkish restaurant right on the waterfront, a cafe in a restored 1953 ferry boat and a French restaurant in the Lengerhane. Golden Horn Cruise æ Sights (p171) 1 Aynal ı kavak Kasr ı ..................................C3 2 Bahriye Nezareti...................................D3 3 Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars ................................................B3 4 Eyüp Sultan Mosque............................A1 5 Hasköy Musevi Mezarl ı g ı ..................... C1 6 Kariye Museum (Chora Church)........A3 7 Phanar Greek Orthodox College.........B4 8 Rahmi M Koç Museum.........................B2 9 Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque............... C4 (p173) 10 Pierre Loti Café.....................................A1 û Drinking

Day Trips PRINCES’ ISLANDS