Istanbul Guide

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iskele . Many are closed for the winter season, and all should be booked ahead on summer weekends. Shops on İşgüzar Sokak in front of the iskele can provide pic nic supplies. HEYAMOLA ADA LOKANTASI TURKISH €€ ( % 0216-351 1111; www.heyamolaadalokantasi. com; Mavi Marmara Yalı Caddesi 30b; mezes ₺10 22, salads ₺10-14, mains ₺22-40; h 9am-11pm, closed Mon Nov-Apr; f Heybeliada) Opposite the İDO ferry dock, this busy place wows customers with a generous array of vegeta ble, yoghurt and seafood mezes. Those un sure of what to order can rely on the mixed meze plates (small/large ₺30/50) followed by a couple of hot seafood dishes. In sum mer, there’s sometimes live music on week end nights. 5 Büyükada Many restaurants are closed from Novem ber to Easter; during summer advance res ervations are recommended, especially on weekends. Fast-food joints and ice-cream stands are clustered around the iskele; restaurants tend to be located next to the water. Picnic supplies can be purchased at the shops on Çınar Caddesi. TERAS RESTAURANT TURKISH €€ (Eskibağ Teras; % 0535 521 2724; Halık Koyu Beach; brunch ₺35, mains from ₺30; h 10am 11pm; c ; f Büyükada) Overlooking Büyüka da’s longest beach, Teras is a fabulous spot for leisurely year-round weekend brunches or summer dining (arrive before sunset). Brunch includes favourites such as men emen (scrambled eggs with peppers, to matoes and sometimes cheese) and börek (filled pastry); dinner features spit-roast lamb and ultrafresh fish. It’s a five-minute walk from Luna Park (take the road near the donkey park); a fayton costs ₺45. PRINKIPO MEYHANE €€€ ( % 0216-382 3591; Gülistan Caddesi 11; set menu incl alcohol ₺125; h 11am-midnight; f Büyükada) Operated by local character Fıstık Ahmet, this long-standing favourite near the port is known for its excellent mezes and lav ish pourings of alcohol (it’s not the type of place that will appeal to teetotallers). Bookings are essential during summer, especially on Friday and Saturday nights when there is live music.

There’s not a lot to see at the monastery, but the panoramic views from its terrace make the hour-long trek worthwhile. A small and gaudy church is the only build ing of note, so most visitors spend their time at the pleasant Yücetepe Kır Gazino su Restaurant ( % 0216-382 1333; Monastery of St George; mains ₺14-20; h daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun only Nov-Mar) . Its outdoor tables have views to İstanbul and the nearby islands of Yassıada and Sivriada. Relegated to an isolated site next to Aya Nikola Beach on the southeastern side of the island, the excellent Museum of the Princes’ Islands (Adalar Müzesi; % 0216-382 6430; www.adalarmuzesi.org; Yılmaz Türk Cad desi; adult/student ₺5/3, Wed free ; h 9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; f Büyükada) is often overlooked by visitors but we highly recommend making the effort to visit it. Multimedia exhibits focus on the history and culture of the Adalar and cover every aspect of island life, including geology, flora, religious heritage, food, architecture, music, festivals and literature. Interpretative pan els and videos are in both Turkish and Eng lish, and there are objects galore to admire. To get to the museum from the iskele (dock), head towards the clock tower and then walk straight ahead before turning left into Çınar Caddesi, right at the first fork into Alparslan Caddesi and then right at the second fork into Malül Gazi Caddesi and onto Yılmaz Türk Caddesi. The mu seum is located next to the Yıldırımspor Kulübü Deneği sports club. It’s a pleasant 3km walk or a ₺35 fayton ride. Büyükada has some good swimming beaches, but you’ll need to pay for the privi lege of using them. Try Nakibey, Yörükali and Viranbağ, where you’ll pay between ₺20 and ₺40 per day per person, including use of a sun lounge and umbrella. Bicycles are available for rent in several of the town’s shops (₺10/30 per hour/day). The fayton stand is to the left of the clock tower. Hire one for a 70-minute tour of the town, hills and shore ( büyük turu , ₺95) or a shorter tour ( küçük turu , ₺80). 5 EATING & DRINKING 5 Heybeliada The best eateries are on the waterside promenade opposite the Mavi Marmara Day Trips PRINCES’ ISLANDS