Istanbul Guide

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The delightful walk from the iskele up to the Merit Halki Palace hotel at the top of Refah Şehitleri Caddesi passes a host of large wooden villas set in lovingly tended gardens. Many laneways and streets lead to picnic spots and lookout points. Bicycles are available for rent in several of the town’s shops (₺10 /30 per hour/day). The fayton stand is on Araba Meydanı be hind the Atatürk statue. Hire one for a one hour tour of the island ( büyük turu , ₺63) or a 25-minute tour ( küçük turu , ₺50). 1 Büyükada The largest island in the Adalar group, Büyükada (Great Island) is impressive viewed from the ferry: gingerbread villas climb up the slopes of the hill and the bulbous twin cu polas of the Splendid Palas Hotel provide an unmistakable landmark. There’s plenty to keep visitors occupied for a full day, with an excellent museum showcasing every aspect of island life, streets dotted with handsome 19th-century timber villas, heavily wooded pine forests with walking tracks, a spectac ularly located Greek Orthodox monastery and a number of clean beaches. You’ll disembark the ferry at the island’s attractive Ottoman Revival–style iskele (ferry dock) building, which dates from 1915 and features attractive Kütahya tiles. The island’s main drawcard is the Greek Orthodox Church and Monastery of St George, located on a 203m-high hill known as Yücetepe. To walk here, head from the ferry to the clock tower in İskele Meydanı (Dock Sq). The shopping district (with cheap eateries) is left along Recep Koç Sokak. Bear right onto 23 Nisan Caddesi, then head along Çankaya Caddesi up the hill to the monastery; when you come to a fork in the road, veer right. The walk, which takes at least one hour, takes you past a long progression of impressive wooden villas set in gardens. After 40 minutes or so you will reach a reserve called Luna Park by the lo cals. The monastery is a 25-minute walk up an extremely steep hill from here. As you ascend, you’ll sometimes see pieces of cloth tied to the branches of trees along the path – each represents a prayer, most made by fe male supplicants visiting the monastery to pray for a child. Once a year, on 23 April, thousands of pilgrims – Greek Orthodox and Muslim – make their way up the hill to pay their respects to St George.

scented forests, which cover 50% of the landscape on both Büyükada and Heybelia da. Swimming is also popular, with the best beaches being on Büyükada; note that the water quality is regularly tested between May and October and the beaches only open when given an all-clear. 1 Kabataş to the Islands After boarding, try to find a seat on the right side of the ferry so that you can view the various islands as the ferry approaches them. Heading towards the Sea of Marma ra, passengers are treated to fine views of Topkapı Palace (p61), Aya Sofya (p 54) and the Blue Mosque (p72) on the right and Kız Kulesi (adult/student ₺20/10; h 9am-6.45pm; f Üsküdar, m Üsküdar) , Haydarpaşa Railway Station (p158) and the distinctive minaret style clock towers of Marmara University (p82) on the left. 1 Heybeliada Heybeliada (Heybeli for short and Halki in Greek) is the prettiest island in the Adalar group, replete with ornate 19th-century tim ber villas and offering gorgeous sea views from myriad viewpoints. It’s extremely pop ular with day-trippers from İstanbul, who flock here on weekends to walk in the pine groves and swim from the tiny and usually crowded beaches. As you arrive, you’ll see the Deniz Lisesi (Turkish Navel Academy) to the left of the iskele . This was founded in 1824. The island’s major landmark is the Hagia Triada Monastery (Aya Triada; % 0216 351 8563; Ümit Tepesi; h daily by appointment; f Heybeliada) , which is perched above a pic turesque line of poplar trees in a spot that has been occupied by a Greek monastery since Byzantine times. This 1844 complex housed a Greek Orthodox theological school until 1971, when it was closed on the govern ment’s orders; the Ecumenical Orthodox Pa triarchate is waging an ongoing campaign to have it reopened. There’s a small church with an ornate altar and an internationally renowned library that houses many old and rare manuscripts. To visit the library, you’ll need to gain special permission from the abbot, Metropolitan Elpidophoros. A fayton will charge around ₺30 to bring you here from the centre of town.

Day Trips PRINCES’ ISLANDS