Istanbul Guide

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ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS

sarcophagi plus a sprawling exhibit documenting İ stanbul’s history. The museum’s major treasures are sarcophagi from sites including the Royal Necropolis of Sidon (Side in modern-day Lebanon), unearthed in 1887 by Osman Hamdi Bey. The extraordinary Alexan der Sarcophagus and Mourning Women Sarcopha gus were not on display when we visited. However, some good pieces from the statuary collection are exhibited on the way into the museum, including a marble head of Alexander from Pergamum. On the 1st floor, a fascinating albeit dusty, exhibition called İ stanbul Through the Ages trac es the city’s history through its neighbourhoods during different periods: Archaic, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman. On the 2nd floor is the museum’s ‘Anatolia and Troy Through the Ages’ exhibition; on the 3rd floor, the ‘Neighbour ing Cultures of Anatolia, Cyprus, Syria and Pales tine’ exhibition was closed at the time of research. At the time of research, a separate entrance led to an impressive collection of ancient grave-cult sarcophagi from Syria, Lebanon, Thessalonica and Ephesus, including impressive anthropoid sarcophagi from Sidon. Three halls are filled with the amazingly detailed stelae and sarcophagi, most dating from between 140 and 270 AD. Many of the sarcophagi look like tiny temples or residen tial buildings; don’t miss the Sidamara Sarcopha gus from Konya with its interlocking horses’ legs and playful cherubs. The last room in this section contains Roman floor mosaics and examples of Anatolian architecture from antiquity. Tiled Pavilion This handsome pavilion was constructed in 1472 by order of Mehmet the Conqueror. The portico, which has 14 marble columns, was constructed during the reign of Sultan Abdül Hamit I (1774–89) after the original burned down in 1737. On display here are Seljuk, Anatolian and Otto man tiles and ceramics dating from the end of the 12th century to the beginning of the 20th century. The collection includes İ znik tiles from the period between the mid-14th and 17th centuries when that city produced the finest coloured tiles in the world. When you enter the central room you can’t miss the stunning mihrab from the İ brahim Bey İ mâret in Karaman, built in 1432.

This classical sculpture from the Royal Necro polis of Sidon is the Archaeology Museum’s most significant pos session – so named not because it belonged to the Macedonian general, but because it depicts him among his army battling the Persians, who were led by King Abdalonymos (whose sarcophagus it is). The sarcophagus is carved out of Pentelic marble and dates from the last quarter of the 4th century BC. Alexan der, on horseback, has a lion’s head as a head dress. The sculpture retains remnants of its original red-and-yellow paintwork. The Tiled Pavilion in the museum com pound was originally an outer pavilion of Topkap ı Palace. The sultan used it to watch sporting events being staged in the palace grounds below (now Gülhane Park).  Leave Gülhane Park to fi nd Kybele Cafe (p88) in an eclectic hotel with hundreds of colourful glass lights hanging from the ceiling.  Seek out Sefa Restaurant (p82) for an authentic taste of delicious Turkish haz ı r yemek (ready made dishes).

SULTANAHMET & AROUND İ STANBUL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUMS