Istanbul Guide

BASILICA CISTERN

EFESENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DON’T MISS  Upside-down head of Medusa used as a column base  Teardrop column

This subterranean structure was commissioned by Emperor Justinian and built in 532. The largest surviving Byzantine cistern in İ stanbul, it was constructed using 336 columns, many of which were salvaged from ruined temples and feature fine carved capitals. Its symmetry and sheer grandeur of conception are quite breathtaking, and its cavernous depths make a great retreat on summer days.

The cistern was originally designed to service the Great Palace and surrounding buildings, and was able to store up to 80,000 cu metres of water delivered via 20km of aqueducts from a reservoir near the Black Sea, but was closed when the Byzantine emperors relocated from the Great Palace. Forgotten by city authorities, it wasn’t re discovered until 1545, when scholar Petrus Gyllius found local residents were obtaining water by lowering buckets into a dark space below their basement floors. Some were even catching fish this way. Intrigued, Gyllius explored and accessed the cistern through one of the basements. After the discovery, the Ottomans used it as a dumping ground for all sorts of junk, including corpses. Now cleaned and renovated, it still has bucketloads of atmosphere. Walking along the raised wooden platforms, you’ll feel water dripping from the vaulted ceiling and see schools of ghostly carp patrolling the water. PRACTICALITIES  Yerebatan Sarn ı ç ı  Map p240, E1  % 0212-512 1570  www.yerebatan.com  Yerebatan Caddesi  admission ₺ 20  h 9am-6.30pm mid-Apr–Sep, to 5.30pm Nov–mid-Apr  j Sultanahmet