Istanbul Guide

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1 SIGHTS AYA SOFYA See p54. TOPKAPI PALACE

Artefacts in the museum’s collection date from the 8th to the 19th century and come from across the Middle East. They include müknames (scrolls outlining an imperial decree) featuring the sultan’s tu ğ ra (cal ligraphic signature); Iranian book binding from the Safavid period (1501–1722); 12th- and 13th-century wooden columns and doors from Damascus and Cizre; Holbein, Lotto, Konya, U ş hak, Iran and Caucasia carpets; and even a cutting of the Prophet’s beard. Sections of the Hippodrome walls can be seen near the entrance. HIPPODROME PARK Map p240 (Atmeydan ı ; Atmeydan ı Caddesi; j Sul tanahmet) The Byzantine Emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the chariot races, and this rectangular arena alongside Sultanahmet Park was their ven ue of choice. In its heyday, it was decorated by obelisks and statues, some of which re main in place today. Re-landscaped in more recent years, it is one of the city’s most popu lar meeting places and promenades. Originally the arena consisted of two levels of galleries, starting boxes and the semicircular southern end known as the Sphendone (Map p240; Nakilbent Sokak; j Sul tanahmet) , parts of which still stand. The gal leries that once topped this stone structure were damaged during the Fourth Crusade and ended up being totally dismantled in the Ottoman period – many of the original columns were used in the construction of the Süleymaniye Mosque. The Hippodrome was the centre of Byz antium’s life for 1000 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 years, and has been the scene of countless political dramas. In Byzantine times, the rival chariot teams of ‘Greens’ and ‘Blues’ had separate sectar ian connections. Support for a team was akin to membership of a political party, and a team victory had important effects on policy. Occasionally, Greens and Blues joined forces against the emperor, as was the case in AD 532 when a chariot race was disturbed by protests against Justinian’s high tax regime. This escalated into the Nika riots (so called after the protesters’ cry of Nika!, or Victory!), which led to tens of thousands of protesters being massacred in the Hippodrome by imperial forces. Not surprisingly, chariot races were banned for some time afterwards. Ottoman sultans also kept an eye on ac tivities in the Hippodrome. If things were

MUSEUM

PALACE

See p109. İ STANBUL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUMS MUSEUM See p74. BLUE MOSQUE

SULTANAHMET & AROUND SIGHTS

MOSQUE

See p118. BASILICA CISTERN

CISTERN

See p76. o MUSEUM OF TURKISH & ISLAMIC ARTS

MUSEUM Map p240 (Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi; www. tiem.gov.tr; Atmeydan ı Caddesi 46, Hippodrome; adult/child under 12yr ₺ 25/free; h 9am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm, end Oct–mid-Apr 9am-7pm, last entry 6.30pm mid-Apr–end Oct; j Sultanahmet) This Ottoman palace was built in 1524 for İ brahim Pa ş a, childhood friend, brother in-law and grand vizier of Süleyman the Magnificent. Recently renovated, it has a magnificent collection of artefacts, includ ing exquisite calligraphy and one of the world’s most impressive antique carpet col lections. Some large-scale carpets have been moved to the Carpet Museum (p79) from the upper rooms, but the collection remains a knockout with its palace carpets, prayer rugs and glittering artefacts such as a 17th century Ottoman incense burner. Born in Greece, İ brahim Pa ş a was cap tured there as a child and sold as a slave into the imperial household in İ stanbul. He worked as a page in Topkap ı Palace, where he became friendly with Süleyman, who was the same age. When his friend became sultan, İ brahim was made in turn chief fal coner, chief of the royal bedchamber and grand vizier. This palace was bestowed on him by Süleyman the year before he was given the hand of Süleyman’s sister, Hadice, in marriage. Alas, the fairy tale was not to last for poor İ brahim. His wealth, power and influence on the monarch became so great that others wishing to influence the sultan became envious, chief among them Süleyman’s powerful wife, Haseki Hürrem Sultan (Roxelana). After a rival accused İ brahim of disloyalty, Roxelana convinced her husband that İ brahim was a threat and Süleyman had him strangled in 1536.