Istanbul Guide

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5 EATING Sultanahmet’s lovely settings and great views are too often accompanied by disappointing meals. That said, we’ve eaten our way through the neighbourhood and, fortunately, there are a few gems to be found. If you’re in the Sirkeci neighbourhood at lunchtime, join the locals in Hocapa ş a Sokak, a pedestrianised street lined with cheap eateries. Here, lokantas offer haz ı r yemek (ready-made dishes), köftecis dish out flavoursome meatballs, kebapç ı s grill meat to order and pidecis serve piping-hot pides (Turkish style pizza). For more about eating in Sirkeci, check http://sirkecirestaurants. com. The Küçük Ayasofya neighbourhood is another good option for more authentic and affordable eateries. SEFA RESTAURANT TURKISH € Map p238 ( % 0212-520 0670; www.sefa restaurant.com.tr; Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 11, Ca ğ alo ğ lu; portions ₺ 8-14, kebaps ₺ 20; h 7am 5pm; v ; j Sultanahmet) Describing its cuisine as Ottoman, this popular place offers haz ı r yemek (ready-made dishes) and kebaps at reasonable prices. You can order from an English menu, but at busy times you may find it easier to just pick daily specials from the bain-marie. Try to arrive early-ish for lunch because many dishes run out by TURKISH € Map p240 ( % 0212-511 0322; Çatal Çe ş me Sokak 3, Ca ğ alo ğ lu; portions ₺ 5.50-15.50; h 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; v ; j Sultanahmet) One of Sultanah met’s last lokantas (eateries serving ready made food), Erol wouldn’t win any awards for its interior design but might for its warm welcome and food. The dishes in the bain marie are made fresh daily using seasonal ingredients by the Erol family members, who have collectively put in several decades in the kitchen. English-speaking son and nephew Ş enol will guide you through the meat and vegetable stews on offer. ÇI Ğ DEM PASTANESI CAFE € Map p240 (Divan Yolu Caddesi 62a; pastries ₺ 1.50 7.50, cakes ₺ 3-10; h 7.30am-11.30pm; j Sultanah met) Strategically located on the main drag between Aya Sofya Meydan ı and the Grand Bazaar, Çi ğ dem has been tempting locals since 1961 with its mouthwatering window display of gateaux and pastries. Pop in for a quick tea ( ₺ 2.50) or coffee (flat white ₺ 7.50) SULTANAHMET & AROUND EATING 1.30pm. No alcohol. EROL LOKANTASI

accompanied by börek (filled pastries), bak lava or tavuk gö ğ sü (a dessert made from milk, rice and pounded chicken breast). GÜLHANE KANDIL TESISLERI TURKISH € Map p238 ( % 0212-444 6644; www.beltur.istanbul; Gülhane Park; sandwiches ₺ 6.50-16.50, all-day breakfast plates ₺ 22, mains ₺ 19; h 11am-10pm; j Gülhane) In spring, the perfume from a profusion of hyacinths blooming in Gülhane Park wafts over the outdoor tables of this gar den cafe, which is built into the park’s histor ic walls. It’s a lovely spot, when the weather is kind, for breakfast, a light lunch or a coffee break (Turkish coffee ₺ 5, çay ₺ 2.50). SEDEF İ SKENDER KEBAP € Map p240 ( % 0212-516 2420; www.sedefdoner. com; Divan Yolu Caddesi 21b; döner ₺ 13; h 11am 10pm; j Sultanahmet) Locals swear that Sedef serves Sultanahmet’s best döner kebap, and keep the chef busy shaving thin slices of meat or chicken with his enormous knife. A por tion stuffed into fresh bread (yar ı m ekmek) makes a great lunch, but the food is not fresh later in the day. Eat in the cafeteria at the back or order a cheaper paket (takeaway). HOCAPA Ş A PIDECISI PIDE € Map p238 ( % 0212-512 0990; www.hocapasa. com.tr; Hocapa ş a Sokak 19, Sirkeci; pides ₺ 8-20; h noon-8pm; j Sirkeci) This much-loved place has been serving piping-hot pides straight from its oven since 1964. Accompanied by pickles, they can be eaten at one of the out door tables or ordered paket (to go). KARADENIZ AILE PIDE VE KEBAP SALONU PIDE, KEBAP € Map p240 ( % 0212-522 9191; www.karadenizpide. net; Hac ı Tahsinbey Sokak 7, off Divan Yolu Caddesi; pides ₺ 16-24, kebaps ₺ 18-32; h 11am-10pm; j Sul tanahmet) Serving tasty pides and kebaps since 1985, the original Karadeniz (Black Sea)–style pide joint in this enclave is a hit with local shopkeepers. You can claim a ta ble in the utilitarian interior (women usually sit upstairs) or on the lane. No alcohol. Make sure that you don’t get this place confused with those nearby, which have cheekily used versions of its name but are nowhere near as good. This one is on the street corner. KÖFTE € Map p240 ( % 0212-520 0566; www.sultanahmet koftesi.com; Divan Yolu Caddesi 12; köfte ₺ 16, beans ₺ 7, çorba ₺ 5; h 11am-10pm; j Sultanah TARIHI SULTANAHMET KÖFTECISI SELIM USTA