Istanbul Guide

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PALATIUM PIDE, TURKISH €€ Map p240 ( % 0543 844 5413; www.palatiumcafe andrestaurant.com; Kutlugün Sokak 33; mezes ₺ 11, pides ₺ 23, mains ₺ 30; h 11am-10pm; Wv ; j Sul tanahmet) Palatium is built atop part of the Great Palace of Byzantium, which you can see through its glass floor, between the rugs, beanbag seats at low tables and dangling lan terns. While the food is better than at many of the surrounding tourist haunts, the pide is probably the best choice, making Palatium better for lunch or a snack than dinner. Dishes are cooked in traditional clay pots in a brick oven. Seafood, stews, pides and a wide range of kebaps are on offer. After you’ve eaten, follow the staircase at the rear to the palace below. o DERALIYE OTTOMAN €€€ Map p240 ( % 0212-520 7778; www.deraliye restaurant.com; Ticarethane Sokak 10; mains ₺ 34 64; h 11am-10pm; Wv ; j Sultanahmet) Start ing with a complimentary glass of titillating pomegranate-flower juice, Deraliye offers a taste of the sumptuous dishes once served in the great Ottoman palaces. The menu gives a potted history of each dish, so you can live out your royal banquet fantasies by ordering the goose kebap served to Süley man the Magnificent or Mehmet II’s favour ite lamb stew. A good selection of Turkish wines com plements the unusual historical dishes and old Turkish favourites such as yaprak sar ma (stuffed vine leaves). Service is fast and efficient, and daily morning and afternoon www.balikci sabahattin.com; Ş eyit Hasan Koyu Sokak 1, Cankur taran; mezes ₺ 10-40, fish ₺ 40-60; h 11am-10pm; W ; j Sultanahmet) Bal ı kç ı Sabahattin is an en during favourite with discerning Turks from near and far, who enjoy the limited menu of meze and seafood, including fish from red mullet to sole. This is Sultanahmet’s most prestigious restaurant and its best food, al though the service can be harried. You’ll dine under a leafy canopy in the garden (one sec tion smoking, the other nonsmoking). Be sure to choose your fish from the display near the entrance; cold mezes are chosen from trays brought to your table. If you have room at the end, the quince with cream is a delicious dessert. cooking classes are offered. o BALIKÇI SABAHATTIN Map p240 ( % 0212-458 1824; SEAFOOD €€€

met) Not to be confused with the nearby Me ş hur Sultanahmet Köftecisi, this no-frills place near the Sultanahmet tram stop is the most famous eatery in the Old City. It has been serving its slightly rubbery ı zgara köfte (grilled meatballs) and bean salad to ultra loyal locals since 1920, and shows no sign of losing its custom – there’s often a queue out side. Accompany your köfte with the green pickled chillies that are served on the side, or ask the waiter for some spicy red chilli sauce. No alcohol; ayran (yogurt drink) is the drink of choice. HAFIZ MUSTAFA SWEETS € Map p238 ( % 0212-527 6654; www.hafizmustafa. com; Muradiye Caddesi 51, Sirkeci; börek ₺ 5, baklava ₺ 6-7.50, puddings ₺ 6; h 9am-6pm; W ; j Sirkeci) Making locals happy since 1864, this ş ekerlemeleri (sweets shop) sells lokum (Turkish Delight), milk puddings and spin ach or cheese börek (filled pastry). Put your sweet tooth to good use in the upstairs cafe, or choose a selection of indulgences to take home (you might want to avoid the baklava, though, which isn’t the best). There are branches on Divan Yolu Cad desi (Map p240; % 0212-514 9068; Divan Yolu Caddesi 14; h 9am-6pm; W ; j Sultanahmet) , in Sultanahmet, and Hamidiye Caddesi (p109), close to the Spice Bazaar. TARIHI ÇE Ş ME RESTAURANT TURKISH €€ Map p240 ( % 0212-516 3580; www.tarihicesme restaurant.com; cnr Kad ı rga Liman Caddesi & Küçük Ayasofya Cami Sokak, Küçük Ayasofya; mezes ₺ 7, pides ₺ 13, mains ₺ 20; h 11am-10pm; j Sultanah met or Çemberlita ş ) Contrary to appearances, this no-frills eatery does serve beer and wine – both perfectly complemented by the out side terrace with its view of people ambling through this quiet neighbourhood. Kebaps, mixed grills and güveç (meat and vegetable stew) are all on the menu. GÜVENÇ KONYALI TURKISH €€ Map p238 ( % 0212-527 5220; Hocapa ş a Hamam Sokak 4, Sirkeci; soups ₺ 6-10, mains & pides ₺ 15 25; h 11.30am-9pm; j Sirkeci) Specialities from Konya in Central Anatolia are the draw at this bustling place just off the much-loved Hocapa ș a Sokak food strip. Regulars come for the spicy bamya çorba ş ı (sour soup with lamb and chickpeas), etli ekmek (flat bread with meat) and meltingly soft slow-cooked meats from the oven. No alcohol.

SULTANAHMET & AROUND EATING