Istanbul Guide

84

hunting grounds for bars. Few are on a par with those in Beyo ğ lu, but do not despair. Why not substitute tobacco or caffeine for alcohol and visit one of the atmospheric çay bahçesis dotted around the neighbourhood? DERVI Ş AILE ÇAY BAHÇESI TEA GARDEN Map p240 (cnr Dalbast ı Sokak & Kabasakal Cad desi; h 7am-midnight Apr-Oct; j Sultanahmet) Superbly located directly opposite the Blue Mosque, the Dervi ş beckons patrons with its comfortable cane chairs and shady trees. Efficient service, reasonable prices and peerless people-watching opportuni ties make it a great place for a leisurely çay ( ₺ 3), nargile ( ₺ 22), tost (toasted sandwich; ₺ 7) and a game of backgammon. CAFE ME Ş ALE NARGILE CAFE Map p240 (Arasta Bazaar, cnr Dalbast ı & Torun Sokaks, Cankurtaran; h 24hr; j Sultanahmet) Located in a sunken courtyard behind the Blue Mosque, Me ş ale is a tourist trap par excellence, but still has loads of charm. Generations of backpackers have joined lo cals in claiming one of its cushioned bench es and enjoying a tea and nargile. It has sporadic live Turkish music and a bustling vibe in the evening. A’YA ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Map p240 ( % 0212-402 3000; www.fourseasons. com/istanbul; Four Seasons Istanbul at Sultan ahmet, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, Cankurtaran; h 4pm late; j Sultanahmet) Open in summer, this rooftop bar has a full-on view of Aya Sofya, Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam ı and the Bosphorus, while the Blue Mosque is only partially obscured. Cocktails ( ₺ 49), meze ( ₺ 30) and an impressive selection of spirits add to the appeal. In winter, sit downstairs in the lounge bar or courtyard garden. CIHANNÜMA BAR Map p238 ( % 0212-512 0207; www.cihannuma istanbul.com; And Hotel, Yerebatan Caddesi 18; h noon-midnight; j Sultanahmet) We don’t recommend eating at this rooftop hotel res taurant near Aya Sofya, but the view from its narrow balcony and glass-sheathed din ing room is one of the Old City’s best (spot Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque, Topkap ı Palace, Galata Tower and the Bosphorus Bridge), so it’s a great choice for a scenic afternoon drink or sundowner.

o COOKING ALATURKA TURKISH €€€ Map p240 ( % 0212-458 5919; www.cookingalaturka. com; Akb ı y ı k Caddesi 72a, Cankurtaran; set lunch or dinner ₺ 65; h lunch 1-3pm & dinner 7-9pm by reser vation Mon-Sat; Wv ; j Sultanahmet) One of the Sultanahmet area’s best dining experiences, this hybrid cooking-school–restaurant serves a set four- or five-course menu of Turkish home-cooking, regional Anatolian speciali ties and Ottoman classics. Sampling dishes such as imam bay ı ld ı (‘the imam fainted’; eggplant, onion, tomato and peppers slow cooked in olive oil) with a glass of local wine is a wonderful way to experience authentic Turkish cuisine. The menu can be tailored to suit vegetar ians or those with food allergies (call ahead). No children under six years at dinner. MATBAH OTTOMAN €€€ Map p238 ( % 0212-514 6151; www.matbah restaurant.com; Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Caferiye Sokak 6/1; mezes ₺ 15-23, mains ₺ 29-61; h noon 10.30pm; Wv ; j Sultanahmet) One of a growing number of İ stanbul restaurants specialising in so-called Ottoman palace cuisine, Matbah offers dishes that were de vised centuries ago in the royal kitchens of Constantinople. The menu changes with the season and features unusual ingredients such as goose, quail, quince and molasses. Try the sailor’s roll starter (seven cheeses wrapped in filo, fried and drizzled with honey). The setting is attractive; the atten tive staff is full of explanations about the historic dishes and there’s live oud music on Friday and Saturday nights in summer. AHIRKAPI BALIKÇISI SEAFOOD €€€ Map p240 ( % 0212-518 4988; Keresteci Hakk ı Sokak 46, Cankurtaran; mezes ₺ 5-40, fish ₺ 35 80; h noon-11pm; W ; j Sultanahmet) Join the locals at this tiny and authentically Turk ish neighbourhood fish restaurant where a seafood-packed fridge beckons to a quiet cobbled street. Get here early to score a table, especially at dinner. 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Most Sultanahmet restaurants are licensed, while streets such as Ş eftali Sokak (near the Basilica Cistern), the adjoining İ ncili Çavu ş Sokak and, down in Cankurtaran, Akb ı y ı k Caddesi are good SULTANAHMET & AROUND DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE