Istanbul Guide

94

MAHMUTPA Ş A YOKU Ş U

Ottoman family. Five of its members served as grand vizier ( vezir ) to the sultan, hence its name. In Ottoman times, this han would have offered travel ling merchants accommodation and a place to do business. Though gold manufacturers still work here, the han is in a sadly dilapidated state. Look for the tu ğ ra (monogram or crest) of the sultan over the main gateway. Continue walking down Vezir Han Caddesi until you come to a cobbled pedestrianised street on your left. Walk along this until you reach the baroque style Nuruosmaniye Mosque (p100). Next to it is one of the major entrances to the Grand Bazaar, the Nuruosmaniye Kap ı s ı (Nuruosmaniye Gate; Gate 1), which is adorned by an imperial tu ğ ra . Head into brightly lit Kalpakç ı lar Caddesi, the busiest street in the bazaar. Originally named after the makers of fur hats ( kalpakç ı lars ) who had their stores here, it’s now full of jewellers. Walk a short distance and then turn right into Sandal Bedesten ı Sokak before veering left into A ğ a Sokak, which takes you into the oldest part of the bazaar, the İ ç (Inner) Bedesten , where most of the bazaar’s an tique stores are located. Exiting the İ ç Bedesten from its north door, head to the first cross street, Hal ı c ı lar Sokak , where popular bath ware and textile shops are located. Walking east (right) you will come to Kuyumcu lar Caddesi (Street of the Jewellers). Turn left and walk past the little kiosk in the middle of the street. Built in the 19th century and known as the Orien tal Kiosk, this was once home to the most famous muhallebici (milk-pudding shop) in the district. A little further down, on the right-hand side of the street, is the pretty Zincirli (Chain) Han . From Kuyumcular Caddesi, turn sharp left into Perdahç ı lar Sokak (Street of the Polishers) and left again into Tekkeçiler Sokak (Street of the Skullcap Makers), home to marble sebils (public drinking fountains). Turn right into Zenneciler Sokak (Street of the Clothing Sellers) and you will soon come to a junc-

This busy thoroughfare links the Grand Bazaar with the Spice Bazaar at Eminönü. From the Grand Bazaar, leave the Mahmutpa ş a Kap ı s ı (Mahmutpa ş a Gate; Gate 18) and walk downhill. Along the way you will pass one of the oldest hamams in the city: the Mahmutpa ş a Hamam ı (Map p242; Mahmutpa ş a Yoku ş u; j Çemberlita ş ) , now a run-down shopping centre. If you veer left onto Tarakç ı lar Caddesi before the hamam and walk to Çakmakç ı lar Yoku ş u, you will see the historic Büyük Valide Han (Map p242; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) , a huge and sadly dilapi dated caravanserai built by order of Murat IV’s mother in 1651.

BAZAAR DISTRICT GRAND BAZAAR

DID YOU KNOW?

Over the bazaar’s his tory, most silversmiths who have worked here have been of Arme nian descent and most goldsmiths have been of Arabic or Aramaic descent – this is still true today.