Istanbul Guide

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tion with another of the bazaar’s major thoroughfares: Sipahi Sokak (Street of the Cavalry Soldiers). Ş ark Kahvesi (p108), a traditional coffeehouse, is on the corner. Turn left into Sipahi Sokak and walk until you return to Kalpakç ı lar Cad desi. Turn right and exit the bazaar from the Beyaz ı t Kap ı s ı (Beyaz ı t Gate; Gate 7). Turn right again and then left into the first passage on the left, where you’ll find the Sahaflar Çar ş ı s ı (Old Book Bazaar; Map p95 ; Çad ı rc ı lar Caddesi, btwn Grand Bazaar & Beyaz ı t Mosque; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) , a book and paper market established in Byzantine times. At the centre of its shady courtyard is a bust of İ brahim Müteferrika (1674–1745), who printed the first book in Turkey in 1732. To learn more about day-to-day life in the bazaar, go to www.mygrandbazaar. com, which profiles some of the people who work here.