Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide
tables or ordered paket (to go).
PIDE, KEBAP € KARADENIZ AILE PIDE VE KEBAP SALONU ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-522 9191; www.karadenizpide.net; Hacı Tahsinbey Sokak 7, off Divan Yolu Caddesi; pides ₺ 16-24, kebaps ₺ 18-32; h 11am-10pm; j Sultanahmet) Serving tasty pides and kebaps since 1985, the original Karadeniz (Black Sea)– style pide joint in this enclave is a hit with local shopkeepers. You can claim a table in the utilitarian interior (women usually sit upstairs) or on the lane. No alcohol. Make sure that you don’t get this place confused with those nearby, which have cheekily used versions of its name but are nowhere near as good. This one is on the street corner. TARIHI SULTANAHMET KÖFTECISI SELIM USTA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-520 0566; www.sultanahmetkoftesi.com; Divan Yolu Caddesi 12; köfte ₺ 16, beans ₺ 7, çorba ₺ 5; h 11am-10pm; j Sultanahmet) Not to be confused with the nearby Meşhur Sultanahmet Köftecisi, this no frills place near the Sultanahmet tram stop is the most famous eatery in the Old City. It has been serving its slightly rubbery ızgara köfte (grilled meatballs) and bean salad to ultra-loyal locals since 1920, and shows no sign of losing its custom – there’s often a queue outside. Accompany your köfte with the green pickled chillies that are served on the side, or ask the waiter for some spicy red chilli sauce. No alcohol; ayran (yogurt drink) is the drink of choice. HAFIZ MUSTAFA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-527 6654; www.hafizmustafa.com; Muradiye Caddesi 51, Sirkeci; börek ₺ 5, baklava ₺ 6-7.50, puddings ₺ 6; h 9am-6pm; W ; j Sirkeci) Making locals happy since 1864, this şekerlemeleri (sweets shop) sells lokum (Turkish Delight), milk puddings and spinach or cheese börek (filled pastry). Put your sweet tooth to good use in the upstairs cafe, or choose a selection of indulgences to take home (you might want to avoid the baklava, though, which isn’t the best). There are branches on Divan Yolu Caddesi ( MAP ; % 0212-514 9068; Divan Yolu Caddesi 14; h 9am-6pm; W ; j Sultanahmet) , in Sultanahmet, and Hamidiye KÖFTE€ SWEETS€
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