Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

CAFE€ TURKISH€ GÜLHANE KANDIL TESISLERI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-444 6644; www.beltur.istanbul; Gülhane Park; sandwiches ₺ 6.50-16.50, all-day breakfast plates ₺ 22, mains ₺ 19; h 11am-10pm; j Gülhane) In spring, the perfume from a profusion of hyacinths blooming in Gülhane Park wafts over the outdoor tables of this garden cafe, which is built into the park’s historic walls. It’s a lovely spot, when the weather is kind, for breakfast, a light lunch or a coffee break (Turkish coffee ₺ 5, çay ₺ 2.50). SEDEF İSKENDER ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-516 2420; www.sedefdoner.com; Divan Yolu Caddesi 21b; döner ₺ 13; h 11am-10pm; j Sultanahmet) Locals swear that Sedef serves Sultanahmet’s best döner kebap, and keep the chef busy shaving thin slices of meat or chicken with his enormous knife. A portion stuffed into fresh bread (yarım ekmek) makes a great lunch, but the food is not fresh later in the day. Eat in the cafeteria at the back or order a cheaper paket (takeaway). HOCAPAŞA PIDECISI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-512 0990; www.hocapasa.com.tr; Hocapaşa Sokak 19, Sirkeci; pides ₺ 8 20; h noon-8pm; j Sirkeci) This much-loved place has been serving piping-hot pides straight from its oven since 1964. Accompanied by pickles, they can be eaten at one of the outdoor KEBAP€ PIDE€ ÇIĞDEM PASTANESI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Divan Yolu Caddesi 62a; pastries ₺ 1.50-7.50, cakes ₺ 3-10; h 7.30am-11.30pm; j Sultanahmet) Strategically located on the main drag between Aya Sofya Meydanı and the Grand Bazaar, Çiğdem has been tempting locals since 1961 with its mouthwatering window display of gateaux and pastries. Pop in for a quick tea ( ₺ 2.50) or coffee (flat white ₺ 7.50) accompanied by börek (filled pastries), baklava or tavuk göğsü (a dessert made from milk, rice and pounded chicken breast).