Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

5 EATING Head to the Vodina Caddesi area for a mix of hip cafes, excellent restaurants neighbourhood bakeries and supermarkets catering to locals. KÖMÜR TURK MUTFAĞI ( % 0212-521 9999; www.komurturkmutfagi.com; Fevzi Paşa Caddesi 18, Fatih; veg portion ₺ 7-8, meat portion ₺ 10-15, grills ₺ 13-32; h 5am-11pm; v ; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) Located amid the wedding-dress shops on Fatih’s main drag is this five-floor Türk mutfağı (Turkish kitchen) where brides-to-be join businesspeople and worshippers from the nearby Fatih Mosque for lunch. The gleaming ground floor space has a huge counter where ready-made dishes are displayed and where fresh meat and fish can be cooked to order. AGORA MEYHANESI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-631 2136; www.agorameyhanesi.com; Mürselpaşa Caddesi 185, Balat; h 11am-midnight; W ; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Dating from 1890, this city institution has recently changed hands but its new owner, Turkish film actor and director Ezel Akay, has worked hard to retain its traditional rakı-soaked atmosphere. The mezes are so so, but the menu comes into its own with the seafood mains ( ₺ 25), which are excellent. Enter from either Mürselpaşa Caddesi or Leblebiciler Sokak. FORNO ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-521 2900; www.fornobalat.com; Fener Kireçhane Sokak 13, Fener; pides & pizza ₺ 16-21; h 10am-8.30pm Tue-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) In a bright and informal space dominated by a long kitchen table, Forno serves delicious pide, pizza and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza). The weekend breakfast buffet ( ₺ 35) is a rich spread replete with towers of bread and mini TURKISH€ TURKISH€€ PIDE, BREAKFAST €€