Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

CAFE€€ OTTOMAN €€€ o ASITANE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-635 7997; www.asitanerestaurant.com; Kariye Oteli, Kariye Camii Sokak 6, Edirnekapı; starters ₺ 18-28, mains ₺ 58; h noon-10.30pm; v ; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim, f Ayvansaray) This elegant restaurant next to the Kariye Museum serves Ottoman dishes devised for the palace kitchens at Topkapı, Edirne and Dolmabahçe. Its chefs have been tracking down historic recipes for years, and the menu is full of versions that will tempt most modern palates, including vegetarian. In the pretty outdoor courtyard or somewhat bland interior, try dishes such as stuffed quince, goose kebap or the ‘fatty apron’ kebap, featuring lamb and beef wrapped in caul (stomach lining) fat. vegetable kebaps, and the organic apricot soufflé and frozen chocolate cake are delectable. AZIZ CAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0539 280 3749; Yıldırım Caddesi 23, Fener; mains ₺ 15; h 8am-7pm; W ; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Expats eagerly consume the wi-fi, excellent chocolate brownies ( ₺ 8) and less impressive coffee ( ₺ 7) at this friendly neighbourhood spot, which fills with İstanbullus on sunny weekends. The limited menu includes mantı (Turkish ravioli), chicken or haleoumi salad and a breakfast platter ( ₺ 20). The mellow and welcoming atmosphere also makes it a great place for a drink and people watching.