Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

5 EATING As is the case in all big international cities, the dining scene in İstanbul can change at a fast and furious pace, meaning that what’s hot one month can be closed due to lack of patrons the next. What can be relied on are the many eateries in this part of town that take pride in serving traditional Turkish regional food, and the growing number of casual places delivering clever modern rifts on old-fashioned favourites using locally sourced, seasonal produce. ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 0910; www.karakoygulluoglu.com; Katlı Otopark, Kemankeş Caddesi, Karaköy; portion baklava ₺ 8-17, portion börek ₺ 7.50-8; h 7am-11pm Sun-Thu, 8am-11.30pm Fri & Sat; c ; j Karaköy) This much-loved baklavacı (baklava shop) opened in 1949 and was the first İstanbul branch of a business established in Gaziantep in the 1820s. A family feud has since led to the opening of other Güllüoğlu offshoots around town, but this remains the best. Pay for a porsiyon (portion) of whatever takes your fancy at the register, then order at the counter. The most popular baklava flavours are fıstıklı (pistachio) and cevizli (walnut), and many regulars order a serve of kaymak (clotted cream) on the side. A glass of tea will take the edge off the sweetness. Note that the börek (filled pastry) here is good, too. MAVRA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-252 7488; Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi 31, Galata; breakfast ₺ 16-32, sandwiches ₺ 12-24, pastas ₺ 18-22; h 9.30am-1am; Wv ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) SWEETS, BÖREK € CAFE€ 5 Galata, Tophane & Karaköy o KARAKÖY GÜLLÜOĞLU