Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

DELI€ TURKISH€€ o KARAKÖY LOKANTASI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-292 4455; www.karakoylokantasi.com; Kemankeş Caddesi 37a, Karaköy; mezes ₺ 10-24, lunch portions ₺ 13-25, mains ₺ 28-55; h noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 6pm midnight Sun; aW ; j Karaköy) Known for its gorgeous tiled interior, genial owner and bustling vibe, Karaköy Lokantası serves tasty and well-priced food to its loyal local clientele. It functions as a lokanta (eatery serving ready-made food) during the day, but at night it morphs into a meyhane (tavern), with slightly higher prices. Bookings are essential for dinner. KARAKÖY GÜMRÜK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-244 2252; http://karakoygumruk.com.tr; Gümrük Sokak 4, Karaköy; snacks & small plates ₺ 22-45, mains ₺ 23-52; h 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; aW ; j Karaköy) An exemplar of the casually stylish restaurant model that has been trending in İstanbul for a few years now, Gümrük has a menu that changes each day according to what’s fresh at the market. Dishes are often clever twists on classic Turkish street food – think beautifully presented pilafs, flavourful offal dishes and a delectable balık ekmek (fish sandwich). MODERN TURKISH €€ Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi is one of the most interesting streets in Galata, full of ornate 19th-century apartment blocks and avant-garde boutiques. Mavra was the first of the cafes to open on the strip, and remains one of the best, offering simple food and drinks amid thrift-shop chic decor. NAMLI GURME ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 6880; http://namligurme.com.t/; Rıhtım Caddesi 1, Karaköy; breakfast plate ₺ 19.50, sandwiches ₺ 6-14, mezes ₺ 38 per 1kg; h 7am-10pm; aWv ; j Karaköy) As well as being one of the best delicatessens in the city, Namlı offers a tempting sit-down or takeaway selection of breakfast dishes, sandwiches, salad and mezes. Its weekend brunch is justly famous (expect to queue for a table), with patrons choosing from the meze array and paying by the weight of their plate.