Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

LOKANTA€ Chef Maksut Aşkar opened this swish eatery in late 2014 and has been wowing local and international diners with his exciting twists on traditional Turkish food ever since. Utilising ingredients listed on the Slow Food Foundation’s Ark of Taste, his refined and delicious dishes are enjoyed alongside the spectacular Old City views offered from both the dining room and terrace. The restaurant is accessed via a staircase in the ground-floor cafe – sadly, the food served there is nowhere near as impressive as its upstairs counterpart. 5 İstiklal & Around o HAYVORE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-245 7501; www.hayvore.com; Turnacıbaşı Sokak 4, Galatasaray; soups ₺ 6-10, pides ₺ 16-23, portions ₺ 10-20; h 11.30am-11pm; aWc ; m Taksim) Notable lokantas (traditional eateries serving ready-made dishes) are few and far between in modern-day Beyoğlu, so the existence of this bustling place next to the Galatasaray Lycée is to be wholeheartedly celebrated. Specialising in Black Sea cuisine, its delicious leafy greens, pilafs, hamsi (fresh anchovy) dishes, soups and pides (Turkish-style pizza) are best enjoyed at lunch – go early to score a table. HELVETIA LOKANTA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-245 8780; General Yazgan Sokak 8a, Tünel; mixed plate ₺ 12.50-15; h noon-10pm Mon-Sat; v ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This tiny lokanta with its open kitchen is popular with locals, who head here to enjoy the freshly prepared, vegetarian-friendly fare. Choose up to five of the home-style dishes for your plate and enjoy them in the relaxed dining space. No alcohol, and cash only. TURKISH€ DESSERTS€ İNCI PASTANESI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mis Sokak 18; profiteroles ₺ 7; h 7am-midnight; a ; m Taksim) A Beyoğlu institution, İnci was forced out of its historic İstiklal Caddesi premises in 2012, but has reopened here and continues to delight devotees with