Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

TURKISH€ ÇUKUR MEYHANE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-244 5575; basement, Kartal Sokak 1a, Galatasaray; mezes ₺ 7-10, mains ₺ 15-20; h 6pm-1am Mon-Sat; a ; m Taksim) Despite their long and much-vaunted tradition in the city, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find meyhanes (taverns) serving good food. Standards have dropped in many of our old favourites (sob!), and we’re constantly on the search for replacements. Fortunately, Çukur fits the bill. On offer are a convivial cafeteria-style atmosphere, great food and relatively cheap prices. No English spoken. PERA CAFÉ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.peramuseum.org; Pera Museum, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 65, Tepebaşı; sandwiches ₺ 15-16, pastas ₺ 18-20, cakes ₺ 7-12; h 10am-7pm Tue-Thu & Sat, to 10pm Fri, noon-6pm Sun; aW ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Decorated in art deco style (as befits its location in a building that originally housed the swish Bristol Hotel), this ground-floor cafe in the Pera Museum is a comfortable and extremely convenient pit stop for art-goers. Pop in for coffee and cake, or opt for something more substantial – it serves pastas, sandwiches and salads and even has an alcohol licence. ASMALI CANIM CIĞERIM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Minare Sokak 1, Asmalımescit; portion ₺ 26, half portion ₺ 18, dürüm ₺ 14; m Șişhane, j Tünel) The name means ‘my soul, my liver’, and this small place behind the Ali Hoca Türbesi specialises in grilled liver served with herbs, ezme (spicy tomato sauce) and grilled vegetables. If you can’t bring yourself to eat offal, fear not – you can substitute the liver with lamb. No alcohol, but ayran (yogurt drink) is the perfect accompaniment. CAFE€ ANATOLIAN € its profiteroles covered in chocolate sauce. We’re also particularly partial to the moist chocolate cake filled with candied fruit, but usually ask the staff to hold the chocolate topping.