Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

CAFE€€ KAFE ARA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-245 4105; http://kafeara.com; Tosbağ Sokak 2, Galatasaray; sandwiches ₺ 24-34, pastas ₺ 26-28, mains ₺ 26-40; h 7.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 10.30am-1am Sat, 10am 11pm Sun; Wv ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This casual cafe occupies a converted garage in a lane opposite the Galatasaray Lycée and is named after legendary local photographer Ara Güler, whose photographs of the city adorn the walls. It serves an array of well-priced salads, sandwiches and Turkish comfort food. Enjoying Sunday brunch ( ₺ 35) at one of the lane tables is particularly pleasant. No alcohol. KLEMURI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-292 3272; www.klemuri.com; 1st fl, Büyük Parmakkapı Sokak 2; soup ₺ 6 7, mains ₺ 15-26; h noon-11pm Mon-Sat; Wv ; m Taksim) The Laz people hail from the Black Sea region, and their cuisine relies heavily on fish, kale and dairy products. One of only a few Laz restaurants in the city, Klemuri serves home-style cooking in bohemian surrounds. There are plenty of choices for vegetarians and vegans and a dessert (Laz böreği ; ₺ 10 ) that has attained a cult following. HACI ABDULLAH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 8561; www.haciabdullah.com.tr; Sakız Ağacı Caddesi 9a; veg portions ₺ 14-25, meat portions ₺ 32-37; h 11.30am-10.30pm; aWv ; m Taksim) ANATOLIAN €€ LOKANTA€€ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-252 3810; www.sofyali.com.tr; Sofyalı Sokak 9, Asmalımescit; mezes ₺ 5.50-26, mains ₺ 26-52; h 1pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; avc ; m Taksim, j Tünel) Tables at this meyhane are hot property on a Friday or Saturday night, when locals flock here to enjoy the tasty food and convivial atmosphere. Regulars tend to stick to mezes, choosing cold dishes from the waiter’s tray and ordering kalamar tava (fried calamari), folyoda ahtapot (grilled octopus in foil) and Anavut ciğeri (Albanian fried liver) from the menu.

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