Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

MEYHANE €€€ MODERN TURKISH €€€ MEZE BY LEMON TREE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-252 8302; www.mezze.com.tr; Meşrutiyet Caddesi 83b, Tepebaşı; mezes ₺ 14-39, mains ₺ 40-56, 4-course degustation menu for 2 ₺ 196; h 6pm-midnight; av ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Chef Gençay Üçok creates some of the most interesting and delicious modern Turkish food seen in the city and serves it in an intimate restaurant opposite the Pera Palace Hotel. Regulars tend to opt for the degustation menu, or choose from the wonderful array of hot and cold mezes rather than ordering mains. Bookings essential. SAHRAP ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-243 1616; www.sahraprestaurant.com; General Yazgan Sokak 13a, Asmalımescit; mezes ₺ 12-22, mains ₺ 28-42; h noon-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; avc ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Popular cookbook writer and TV chef Sahrap Soysal oversees the menu here, and the result is a tasty and well-priced introduction to modern Turkish cuisine. The two-level dining space is attractively decorated and Sahrap’s food is fresh MODERN TURKISH €€€ This upmarket İstanbul institution (it was established in 1888) serves a good, albeit pricey, range of hazır yemek (ready-made food). There’s no alcohol, but the range of delicious desserts well and truly compensates (try the quince dessert with clotted cream). Come for lunch rather than dinner and be prepared for the double whammy of cover and service charges. o ELEOS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-244 9090; www.eleosrestaurant.com; 2nd fl, İstiklal Caddesi 231, Tünel; mezes ₺ 10-30, mains from ₺ 30; h 2.30pm-midnight; aWc ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Hidden upstairs in the shabby Hıdivyal Palas building, Eleos transports its diners from Beyoğlu to the Greek islands. A stylish blue-and-white decor and fabulous Bosphorus view set the scene, and the food seals the deal – colourful mezes featuring plenty of herbs and garlic, tender octopus and calamari, perfectly grilled fish and fresh fruit to finish. Advance bookings essential.