Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

INTERNATIONAL €€ LOKMA ( MAP ; % 0212-265 7171; www.lokma.com.tr; Yahya Kemal Caddesi 18, Rumeli Hisarı; breakfast dishes ₺ 6.50-14.50, pizzas ₺ 17.50-27, burgers ₺ 18-28; h 6am-midnight; Wc ; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Enjoying brunch in Rumeli Hisarı is a popular pastime, so this newcomer to the main drag has no problems filling its 300-odd seats on weekends. The huge terrace (glassed-in during the winter months) with its Bosphorus view is a great spot to enjoy börek or eggs at breakfast; pizzas and burgers are the rule at lunch. No alcohol. KIYI ( MAP ; % 0212-262 0002; Haydar Aliyev Caddesi 186, Tarabya; mezes ₺ 12-30, mains from ₺ 40; h midday-midnight; g 22, 25E & 29C from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Named after a species of freshwater whitefish, this large and often boisterous restaurant has been serving excellent seafood to locals since the 1960s and remains popular with many of the city’s movers and shakers. In summer, the upstairs terrace is the place to be; during winter the action moves into the art-adorned dining room. Menu items are standard but delicious. ANTICA LOCANDA ( MAP ; % 0212-287 9745; www.anticalocanda.com.tr; Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy; starters ₺ 20-40, Milanese-born chef Gian Carlo Talerico and his Turkish wife Beldan Erkkul converted this former residence of the Aya Strati Taksiarhi Greek Orthodox Church complex into an elegant trattoria in 2011. They keep a loyal coterie of locals happy with takes on classic Italian dishes including grills, pastas and pizzas. SEAFOOD €€€ ITALIAN €€€ and a muhallebisi (milk pudding) in the afternoon. Watching the valet parking ritual on weekends is hilarious. mains ₺ 36-70; h 6.30-10pm Tue, noon-2pm & 6.30-10pm Wed-Sat, noon-2pm Sun; pavc ; g 22, 22RE & 25E from Kabataş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim)