Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

MODERN TURKISH €€€ TAPASUMA ( MAP ; % 0216-401 1333; www.tapasuma.com; Kuleli Caddesi 43, Çengelköy; mezes ₺ 14-35, mains ₺ 49-85; h 11.30am-midnight; a ; g 15, 15E, 15H, 15KÇ, 15M, 15N, 15P, 15ŞN, 15T, 15U from Üsküdar) Set in a restored 19th-century rakı distillery ( suma is a Turkish word meaning ‘unadulterated spirit’), this stylish restaurant is attached to the luxury Sumahan on the Water hotel and has a stunning waterside location. The menu features Turkish mezes with a modern twist, as well as fresh seafood mains. Sadly, service standards don’t match the hefty prices. MÜZEDECHANGA ( MAP ; % 0212-323 0901; www.changaistanbul.com; Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi, Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42, Emirgan; starters ₺ 35-48, mains ₺ 65-85; h 10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun; aWv ; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) A glamorous terrace with Bosphorus views is the main draw of this design driven restaurant at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. Sadly, the overpriced menu offerings look better than they taste. If you don’t feel like visiting the museum, door staff will waive the entry fee and point you towards the restaurant. LUCCA ( MAP ; % 0212-257 1255; www.luccastyle.com; Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 51b, Bebek; h 10am-2am; g 22, 22B & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Embraced by the in-crowd since 2005, Lucca’s star shows no sign of waning. Glam young things flock here on Friday and Saturday nights to see and be seen, but the mood is more relaxed during the week. Food choices are global; coffee reigns supreme during the day; and cocktails claim the spotlight at night. MODERN TURKISH €€€ BAR