Istanbul Guide

106

HAVUZLU RESTAURANT Map p95 ( % 0212-527 3346; www.havuzlu restaurant.com; Gani Çelebi Sokak 3, Grand Bazaar; portions ₺ 17-30; h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; ac ; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) After a morning spent in the Grand Bazaar, many visitors choose to park their shopping bags at this well-known lokanta . A lovely space with a vaulted ceiling, Havuzlu (named after the small fountain at its entrance) serves up simple but tasty fare to hungry hordes of tourists and shopkeepers – go early when the food is freshest. No alcohol. 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Like most parts of the Old City, the area around the Grand Bazaar is conservative and there are few places serving alcohol. There are loads of çay bahçesis (tea gardens), nargile cafes and kahvehanesis (coffeehouses) to visit, though. o MIMAR SINAN TERAS CAFE NARGILE CAFE Map p242 ( % 0212-514 4414; Mimar Sinan Han, Fetva Yoku ş u 34-35, Süleymaniye; h 8am-1am; W ; m Vezneciler) A magnificent panorama of the city can be enjoyed from the spacious outdoor terrace of this popular student cafe in a ramshackle building located in the shadow of Süleymaniye Mosque. Head here during the day or in the evening to ad mire the view over a coffee, unwind with a nargile or enjoy a glass of çay and game of backgammon. To keep you sated, food and drink choic es include gö zleme (stuffed flatbreads, ₺ 16 to ₺ 18), sahlep (hot milky drink, ₺ 12) and Turkish coffee ( ₺ 11). Be sure to sit on the terrace at the very top of the building, TEA GARDEN Map p242 (Yeniçeriler Caddesi 35, Beyaz ı t; h 7am midnight; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Set in the vine-covered courtyard of the Çorlulu Ali Pa ş a Medrese, this nargile cafe near the Grand Bazaar is the most atmospheric in the Old City. TURKISH €€ which has the best view. o ERENLER NARGILE VE ÇAY BAHÇESI

BAZAAR DISTRICT DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Map p95 ( % 0212-528 1613; www.fescafe.com; Halicilar Caddesi 62, Grand Bazaar; sandwiches ₺ 15-18, salads ₺ 20-25; h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) After a morning spent trading repartee with the Grand Bazaar’s many touts, you’ll be in need of respite. Those who want a cafe with a Western style ambience and menu are sure to be happy with this stylish cafe at the centre of the bazaar action. Sandwiches and salads feature on the menu, along with good es presso and Turkish coffee. There’s another branch (Ali Baba Türbe Sokak 25) in nearby Nuruosmaniye, but this was closed for renovation at the time of research. locals shopping or enjoying a gossip, and tourists were a rare sight before Anthony Bourdain filmed a segment of No Reserva tions here and blew Sur’s cover. There are plenty of options on offer: consider the mixed Sur kebap plate ( ₺ 30), içli köfte (deep-fried lamb and onion meat balls with a bulgur coating, ₺ 4), çi ğ köfte (meat pounded with spices and eaten raw, ₺ 10) and lahmacun ( ₺ 5). There’s no alco hol, but there’s homemade ayran . FES CAFE CAFE €€

FISH SANDWICHES The city’s favourite fast food is un doubtedly the bal ı k ekmek (fish sand wich), and the most atmospheric place to try one of these is at the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge (p101). Here, in front of fishing boats tied to the quay, are a number of stands where mackerel fillets are grilled, crammed into fresh bread and served with salad. A generous squeeze of bottled lemon juice is optional but recommended. A sandwich will set you back a mere ₺ 8, and is delicious accompanied by a glass of the ş algam (sour turnip juice, ₺ 2) sold by nearby pickle vendors. There are plenty of other places around town to try a bal ı k ekmek – head to any iskele (ferry dock) and there’s bound to be a stand nearby. For an upmarket version ( ₺ 30), head to stylish eatery Karaköy Gümrük (p133) near the derköy docks.