Istanbul Guide

107

CHEAP EATS: THE GRAND BAZAAR Lunch is an important part of the day for the shopkeepers, artisans and porters who work in and around the Grand Bazaar. As well as providing an excuse for a break, it’s also a chance to chat with fellow workers and catch up with the local gossip. Of the hundreds of food stands in the streets and lanes in and around the bazaar, the fol lowing are our favourites. Most have a few stools for customers; a few are takeaway only. Note that when ordering döner or kokoreç in ekmek (bread), you will usually have to choose from three sizes: çeyrek (a quarter of a loaf), yar ı m (half a loaf) or bütün (a whole loaf). The term dürüm , which means wrapped, applies when meat is served in thin lava ş bread. Dönerci Ş ahin Usta (Map p95; % 0212-526 5297; www.donercisahinusta.com; K ı l ı çç ı lar Sokak 9, Nuruosmaniye; döner kebap from ₺ 9; h 11am-3pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) Ask any shopkeeper in the Grand Bazaar about who makes the best döner in the immediate area, and you will likely get the same answer: ‘ Ş ahin Usta, of course!’ Takeaway only. Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu (Map p242; % 0212-513 7664; Pa ş a Camii Sokak 16, Mercan; pides ₺ 9-14; h 11am-3pm Mon-Sat; j Eminönü) Finding this worker’s pideci is an adventure in it self (it’s hidden in the steep narrow lanes behind the Büyük Valide Han), but your quest will pay off when you try the fabulous pides, which are served straight from the oven. Aynen Dürüm (Map p95; Muhafazac ı lar Sokak 29; dürüm kebap ₺ 9-12; h 7am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) You’ll find this perennially busy place just inside the Grand Bazaar’s K ı l ı çç ı lar Kap ı s ı (K ı l ı çç ı lar Gate), near where the currency dealers ply their noisy trade. Patrons are free to doctor their choice of grilled meat (we like the chicken) with pickled cucumber, grilled and pickled green chillies, parsley, sumac and other accompaniments that are laid out on the communal bench. Dürümcü Raif Usta (Map p242; % 0212-528 4910; Küçük Y ı ld ı z Han Sokak 6, Mahmutpa ş a; dürüm kebap ₺ 10-12; h 11.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) The assembly line of staff assisting the usta at this place attests to the excellence and popularity of its speciality: Adana and Urfa kebaps served with raw onion and parsley and wrapped in lava ş bread. Note that the Adana is spicy; Urfa isn’t. Kokoreççi Erdinç Usta (Map p95; % 0212-514 6029; K ı l ı çç ı lar Sokak 33, Nuruosmaniye; kokoreç from ₺ 5; h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) Devotees of offal flock here for the kokoreç (seasoned lamb intestines stuffed with sweetbreads or other offal, seasoned with red pepper and oregano, wrapped around a skewer and grilled over charcoal). Me ş hur Dönerci Hac ı Osman’ ı n Yeri (Map p242; Fuat Pa ş a Caddesi 16, Mercan; döner kebap from ₺ 4.50; h 11am-5pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) This döner stand occupy ing an elegant Ottoman sebil (fountain) outside the Ali Pa ş a Camii is very popular with local shopkeepers and shoppers as well as students from nearby İ stanbul University. Bena Dondurmalar ı (Map p242; % 0212-520 5440; Gaz ı Atik Ali Pa ş a Camii 12b, Çemberlita ş ; ice cream ₺ 1 per scoop, desserts ₺ 3-5; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) There’s inevitably an afternoon queue in front of this tiny dondurma (Turkish ice cream) shop in the courtyard of the Atik Ali Pa ş a Camii. Though the dondurma is an undeniable draw, we tend to opt for the f ı r ı n sütlaç (rice pudding) or decadent trileçe (cream-soaked sponge cake with a caramel topping).

BAZAAR DISTRICT DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

VEFA BOZACISI BOZA BAR Map p242 ( % 0212-519 4922; www.vefa.com. tr; 66 Vefa Caddesi, Molla Hüsrev; boza ₺ 3; h 8am-midnight; m Vezneciler) This famous boza bar was established in 1876 and lo cals still flock here to drink the viscous tonic, which is made from water, sugar

and fermented barley and has a slight lemony tang. Topped with dried chick peas and a sprinkle of cinnamon, it has a reputation for building up strength and virility, and tends to be an acquired taste. In summer, the bar also serves ş ı ra, a fermented grape juice.