Istanbul Guide

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Golden Horn (Haliç)

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22 Neighbourhood Walk Exploring Eyüp

(circumcision) and have made a stop be forehand in this holy area. On the northern edge of the square is the 3 Eyüp Sultan Mosque (p 118) and the 4 Tomb of Ebu Eyüp el-Ensari , the most important religious site in İstanbul. Enter the mosque’s courtyard, which is shaded by a huge plane tree; the mosque is to your right and the tomb, rich with silver, gold and crystal chandeliers and coloured İznik tiles, is to your left. After visiting both, walk out of the main gate and turn right into Balaban Yolu Sokak. Walk around the mosque complex (keeping it to your right) until you see a set of stairs and a cobbled path going uphill into the 5 Eyüp Sultan Mezarlığı (Cemetery of the Great Eyüp), where many important Ottomans are buried. It is worth wandering off the path and through the cemetery, as many of the headstones and tombs feature fine calligraphy and statuary. Walk uphill for approximately 15 minutes to reach your final destination, the 6 Pierre Loti Café (p 122), from where you can admire a pano ramic view of the Golden Horn.

START EYÜP İSKELESI END PIERRE LOTI CAFÉ LENGTH 1KM; ONE HOUR

Take the Golden Horn ferry from Karaköy or Eminönü and disembark at Eyüp. Cross busy Bahariye Caddesi; walk through the park and veer slightly right into Eyüp İskele Sokak, following it to pedestrian-only Cami Kebir Sokak, which is lined with stalls sell ing religious souvenirs and tourist tat. At the top of the street is the 1 Tomb of Sokullu Mehmet Paşa (p 120), an Otto man grand vizier. The tomb is next to 2 Eyüp Meydanı , where pilgrims and family groups congregate around the fountain and where street vendors sell fairy floss, macun (luridly coloured twisted candy on a stick), kağıt helvas (wafers filled with sweet sesame paste) , kestane (roasted chestnuts) and mısır (grilled corn on the cob). Often the family groups include young boys dressed up in white satin suits with spangled caps and coloured sashes emblazoned with the word ‘Maşallah’ (May God Protect Him) . These lads are on the way to their sünnet

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