Istanbul Guide

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Western Districts Sights Conquest, and Sultan Mehmet II decided to build a grand tomb to mark its location. The mosque complex that he commissioned became the place where the Ottoman princes came for the Turkish equivalent of a coronation ceremony: girding the Sword of Osman to signify their power and their title as padişah (king of kings) or sultan. In 1766 Mehmet’s building was levelled by an earthquake; a new mosque was built on the site by Sultan Selim III in 1800. Be careful to observe Islamic proprieties when visiting, as this is an extremely sacred place for Muslims, ranking fourth after the big three: Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. It’s always busy on weekends and religious holidays. TOMB OF SOKULLU MEHMET PAŞA TOMB (Sokullu Mehmed Paşa Türbe; Cami Kebir Sokak, Eyüp; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Tak sim, f Eyüp) Designed by Mimar Sinan and constructed around 1572, this türbe was part of a külliye (mosque complex) com missioned by Ottoman statesman Sokullu Mehmet Paşa (c 1506–79). Assassinated af ter 14 years as grand vizier, he was buried here next to his wife Ismihan, the daughter of Sultan Selim II. Inside, the stained glass is particularly noteworthy. The külliye also includes a medrese (seminary). Sokullu Mehmet Paşa’s life story is fas cinating. Born in Bosnia, he was captured by Ottoman troops and recruited into the devşirme, the annual intake of Christian youths into the janisseries (this also hap pened to Sinan). After converting to Islam, he rose through the ranks, holding impor tant positions such as high admiral of the fleet, before becoming a vizier and then grand vizier for a total of 24 years under three sultans: Süleyman the Magnificent, Selim II and Murat III. During his time in office, he amassed a great fortune and commissioned religious buildings includ ing the Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque (p81 ) in Sultanahmet. GÜL MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p252 (Gül Camii; cnr Gül Camii & Şerefiye Sokaks, Fener; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) This mosque started life as the 11th-century Church of St Theodo sia. Legend has it that one day before the Conquest, worshippers filled the church with rose petals in St Theodosia’s honour and prayed for her intervention against the

Ottomans. Their prayers went unanswered, but the invaders renamed the building Gül (Rose) Mosque after the petals they found on entering. But legends, however appealing, are rare ly true. In reality, the building was used as a shipyard warehouse after the Conquest and wasn’t converted into a mosque until the reign of Beyazıt II (r 1481–1512). The ex tremely high central dome is an Ottoman addition and the pretty minaret dates from HISTORIC BUILDING Map p252 (Palace of the Sovereign, Tekfur Sarayı; Hoca Çakır Caddesi, Edirnekapı; g 99, 99A, 99Y, 28 from Eminönü, 55T, 87 from Taksim, f Ayvan saray) Though only a shell these days, the remnants of this Byzantine palace give a good idea of how it would have looked in its heyday. Built in the late 13th or early 14th century, the large three-storied structure may have been an annexe of the nearby im perial Palace of Blachernae, of which few traces exist today. The building’s later uses were not so re gal: after the Conquest it functioned in turn as a menagerie for exotic wild animals, a brothel, a poorhouse for destitute Jews, a pottery and finally a car park. When we visited, restoration of the pal ace’s remaining sections had finished, but it was closed to the public with no opening date forthcoming. CHURCH OF ST MARY OF THE MONGOLS CHURCH Map p252 (Church of Theotokos Panaghiotissa, Kanlı Kilise; Tevkii Cafer Mektebi Sokak, Fener; h 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Consecrated in the 13th century and saved from conver sion into a mosque by the personal decree of Mehmet the Conqueror, this is the only church in İstanbul to remain in Greek hands ever since Byzantine times. It was named after Princess Maria Paleologina, an illegitimate daughter of Emperor Mi chael VIII Paleologos. Maria was sent from Byzantium to marry Hulagu, the Great Khan of the Mon gols, in 1265. By the time she arrived in his kingdom, he had died, so she was forced to marry his son Abagu instead. On Abagu’s death, she returned to Byzantium and re tired to a convent attached to this church. the rule of Selim I (r 1512–20). PALACE OF CONSTANTINE PORPHYROGENITUS