Istanbul Guide

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Dock). The most useful departure times for day-trippers are 8.40am and 10.40am (8.30am, 9.30am and 10.30am from June to mid-September). The trip costs ₺ 5.50 ( ₺ 4.40 with an İstanbulkart) to the islands and the same for each leg between the islands and for the return trip. Ferries return to İstanbul every two hours or so. Last ferries leave Büyükada at 6.15pm and 8.20pm and Heybeliada at 6.30pm and 8.35pm (9.15pm and 10.15pm from Büyükada and 9.30pm and 10.30pm from Heybeliada from June to mid-September). ¨ İDO ( % 0850-222 4436; www.ido.com.tr) Offers two daily fast catamaran ferry services from Kabataş ( ₺ 11 jeton or ₺ 8.60 on İstanbulkart). ¨ Dentur Avrasya (p171) Operates regular small ferries stopping at Büyükada and Heybeliada ( ₺ 6); these leave from the dock behind the gas station at Kabataş. ¨ Turyol ( % 0212-251 4421; http://turyol.com) Operates small ferry services between three and five times per day from both Karaköy and Eminönü to Büyükada ( ₺ 6). Getting Around One of the wonderful things about the Princ es’ Islands is that they are car-free zones. The main forms of transport are motorised carts, bicycles and faytons (horse-drawn carriages). The name fayton comes from the mythical Phaeton, son of the sun god Helios. Most İstanbullus refer to the Princes’ Islands as simply The Islands (Adalar). Pop ulated since the 4th century BC, the islands acquired their present name in the 6th cen tury AD after coming into the possession of the Byzantine prince, Justin. The first Greek Orthodox monastery was established in 846 and regular ferry services from İstanbul began in 1846. Wealthy İstanbullus then be gan to purchase holiday villas here. Büyüka da and Burgaza were popular with families of Greek and Jewish heritage; Heybeliada was predominantly Greek. Popular island activities include cycling or walking along the attractive villa-lined streets, and exploring the protected pine Need to Know ¨ Area Code % 0216 1 SIGHTS

southeast of the city in the Sea of Marmara, there are nine islands in the group, five of which are populated (combined population 16,050). Most visitors head to the two larg est, Büyükada and Heybeliada. If you man age to catch an early ferry, you will be able to spend the morning on Heybeliada and the afternoon on Büyükada (or vice versa). Note that many restaurants and most hotels are closed between November and April; and that ferry services are occasionally cancelled due to poor weather, resulting in visitors be ing stranded overnight. For further informa tion, check the English-language website of the Adalar Beladiyesi (www.adalar.bel.tr) . The Best... ¨ Sight Hagia Triada Monastery (p 175), Heybeliada ¨ Place to Eat Teras Restaurant (p176), Büyükada ¨ View Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu Restaurant (p176), Büyükada Top Tip The islands can be oppressively crowded between May and October, when visitors number up to 50,000 per day on weekends. To avoid these crowds, visit on a weekday. Getting There & Away On summer weekends, board the ferry and grab a seat at least half an hour before de parture time unless you want to stand the whole way. From the right side of the ferry you can view the various islands en route. Heading towards the Sea of Marmara, pas sengers are treated to fine views of Topkapı Palace, Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque on the right and Kız Kulesi, Haydarpaşa train station and the distinctive minaret-style clock towers of Marmara University on the left. After a quick stop at Kadıköy, the ferry makes its way to the first island in the group, Kınalıada (30 minutes); then to Burgazada (15 minutes); to Heybeliada (15 minutes), the second-largest island; and to Büyükada (10 minutes), the largest island in the group. Be sure to check the websites of all companies as schedules and routes change regularly. ¨ İstanbul Şehir Hatları (p171) Runs at least eight ferry services daily to the islands from 6.50am to 11pm (to 9pm June to mid September) from Kabataş. These depart from the Adalar İskelesi (Adalar Ferry Day Trips PRINCES’ ISLANDS